Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini

[MiniDave]

Description is shut off valve.....I would think you can simply bypass it......

[MPlayle]

It is on the vapor vent of the tank.  I think it is more of a "fuel trap" for fuel condensation to go back into the tank instead of forward to the charcoal canister.

Unfortunately, I disposed of the one that came off my Blue Mini when I did the carb conversion.

[MiniDave]

It probably should be there then.......to keep liquid fuel out of the charcoal canister - that's an important function.......as long as you're still using that system.

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

Where is the charcoal canister located? As far as I can tell, one side is hooked up to a 3rd fuel line that goes to the engine bay, whereas the other side dumps into the fuel tank directly.

[MiniDave]

It's usually under one of the front fenders - right side IIRC, then a hose from the canister should go to the intake - usually into the air filter box.....to draw off the fumes. This is an emissions device, it collect fumes from the fuel tank so they don't go into the atmosphere and burns them when the engine runs, that's why you don't want liquid fuel going into
the canister.

[MPlayle]

The charcoal canister on mine was under the radiator side fender.

The line from the trap at the tank runs under the car to the front and transitions to another stiff plastic line going through the fender to the canister.  There is then a line from the canister back through the fender to a "purge" valve with an electrical connection and then from the "purge" valve to the intake.

[MiniDave]

There you go.....

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

Got some more work done today. Put the rear end all back together. Brake lines, battery cable, fuel lines are all hooked up, along with a new fuel filter. Exhaust is also bolted up. E-brake is also hooked up. I haven't reinstalled the drivers seat yet in case I need to adjust the e-brake handle. I also need to install the drop collar for the steering bracket. I just haven't put the tank back into place, due to the snapped vent cut off.


2016-07-13 19.32.02 by Jory Irving, on Flickr


2016-07-13 19.31.58 by Jory Irving, on Flickr

Got the alternator installed. The pillar bolt I originally bought wouldn't thread directly into the alternator, so I used a bolt and made my own spacer using a bigger bolt with a flat washer.


2016-07-13 19.31.21 by Jory Irving, on Flickr


2016-07-13 19.31.29 by Jory Irving, on Flickr

Also installed the new gator boot on the left hand side, as well as the tie rod ends on both sides.


2016-07-13 19.31.50 by Jory Irving, on Flickr

I also noticed the valve cover gasket is leaking, so I'm looking for a replacement. I'm just not sure if it's the 9 stud of 11 stud one I need.


2016-07-13 19.31.44 by Jory Irving, on Flickr


2016-07-13 19.31.37 by Jory Irving, on Flickr

MiniDave, I'll PM you re: the vent.

[MiniDave]

I think the valve cover gaskets are all the same.....if you don't have Mini parts nearby, the Sprite/MG midget is also the same. I'm sure I have an extra valve cover gasket too, if I'm sending you anything I can add that into the package...

I'll go dig around in my parts stash and make sure I still have it, I'm almost positive I do.....

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

I'm just looking at Minimania, and they have a different part number for a non-S and S gasket (9 stud vs 11 stud).

Was also thinking of going silicon over cork.

9 stud silicon vs 11 stud
http://minispares.com/product/Classic/GUG5038EVO.aspx
http://minispares.com/product/Classic/GUG705009EVO.aspx

Also looking at getting these:
http://minispares.com/product/Classic/SAC71L.aspx
http://minispares.com/product/Classic/12A1358MS.aspx

And new bump stops, since mine are mildly disintegrating.
http://minispares.com/product/Classic/2A4267MS.aspx

I wasn't planning on making another order so soon, but I have a friend who just picked up a twin to my car, and he's looking at placing an order, so I can piggy back off him, but if you have one Dave, that'd be awesome.

[MiniDave]

The only difference in the gaskets is the little cutouts for the extra two studs, the gasket is the same - if you have the 11 stud head you should buy the right one rather than cut out the notches.

I've used the cork ones with no issues, I glue it securely to the valve cover, the coat the surface that contacts the head with grease, then it comes off easily again when I need to adjust the valves.....never had one leak either. The silicon ones work well, just a lot of money. The main thing is not to overtighten them.....

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

I'll pop off the cover when I get home, see which it is.

[MiniDave]

You don't need to pop the cover, if you have a 3/8 nut (9/16 or 14mm wrench) on either end outside the valve cover it's the 11 stud, if you don't it's the 9 stud.

Or post a pic, we can tell you which it is.....

[MPlayle]

Pictures are indeed posted.  Also being one of the fuel injected systems, it is the 9-stud head.  When I replaced the one on my blue Mini, I did what Dave recommends and used gasket sealer to attach it to the cover and a thin film of grease on the head mating side.

The "cross reference" to see if your local parts store has the valve cover gasket, ask about the gasket for a 1973 MG Midget (1275cc).

[MiniDave]

Yep, sorry I didn't scroll up to see the pics - 9 stud head.

See if this looks like the right part.....

Do you need the bolt tools to drift out the bearings still?

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

9 stud? Even though I'm fairly sure it's an S? I'll double check the head.

1991–96 Mini Cooper S 1.3i, 77 hp (57 kW) at 5800 rpm and 80 lb·ft (110 N·m) at 3000 rpm

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMC_A-Series_engine#1275_Plus

Yes, that's absolutely the right part I need. Also, I'm going to try the "filed down washer" method tonight, so I shouldn't need the parts anymore to get the bearings out. I need to pick up some brake fluid and some clear tubing to bleed the brakes anyways.

[MiniDave]

Only the MK1 Cooper S came from the factory with an 11 stud head, the later cars did not have that...... many have added the additional studs when doing a rebuild tho....

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

Didn't realise reinstalling the upper control arms meant pulling out the cone compressor. Glad I bought it on a whim. Had to borrow the 1-5/16" socket from a neighbour, and I managed to tear one of my brand new dust seals. I also used this as an opportunity to throw new cones into the front, since my old ones were flat pancakes.

After replacing the cone, is it normal to have almost no play? Even with the hilo's bottomed out, the arm just doesn't move once I got the trumpet/knuckle into the cone. I had a hell of a time getting the lower bump stop back in. But that's one more corner down, and one to go.

[MPlayle]

Until the new rubber cone settles some there will be very little "play" in the front arms.  It will also look as though on its tip-toes once back on the ground.  They will settle and then the hi-los come into play for getting the desired ride height.

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

He lives!


2016-07-16 21.30.25 by Jory Irving, on Flickr

The front has so much rake. It needs a good alignment to dial it all in, and the first time I tried to drive away, I found out the LH axle has separated inside the boot. I popped it out and fixed it, and it drove like a top. So excited.

Of note, since I had to use the cone compressor anyways to get the upper arm back in, I opted to drop in a set of "slightly used" cones that Hunter Classic cars threw into a previous order for me.
I also greased all the things. Hilos, front and rear, upper arms, ball joints, radius arms. Did a full brake bleed. Had to get new crush washers for the banjo bolt, since it was just spitting out fluid every time we pressed the brake pedal.


2016-07-16 12.01.18 by Jory Irving, on Flickr

Yep.

I also managed to strip one of the trunk hinges, so I'll need to order a new one. I don't like the chrome ones on MiniSpares, so I'll be ordering a metal one and painting it myself.

MiniDave shipped me the fuel tank thingy, but for the meantime, I bypassed it with some fuel line.

[94touring]

Damn that's one flat cone!

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

It was a hell of a fight to get it out. When I had the car in a local mini shop last  year, they told me cones were fine.

But it rides so much more comfortably now. Rebuilt radius arms, new rear subframe bushings, new knuckles all the way around, rebuilt upper control arms, new shocks all the way around, newer cones up front... A+.

Now I just need to get the wheels powdercoated.

[Willie_B]

Looking good. Driving time........

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

Driven it around the last few days. It's been fantastic. The ride is so much better. Next, I need to even out the height... Each corner is different (centercap to fender) ranging from 11.75" to 10".

Also, finally figured out what wheels are on the car. They're Cosmic MKII 12x5 wheels (or reproductions), which I'll be sandblasting and refinishing/powdercoating.

Also huge thanks to Minidave for the vent/purge valve thing. I just need to get the joints/fittings into the weird hard plastic lines, and it'll be ready to go on.

[MiniDave]

Heat them with a hairdryer first to soften them......