How Woul You Fix This

[Spitz]

PO had some silly hook thing bolted to the hood.  I need to fix these so I can place my Morris badge.
Keep in mind my welding skills are "novice".
Would I weld a piece behind and fill?  This would leave a  piece of metal on the inside...

[Willie_B]

The larger holes, cut a round piece that fits inside the hole and weld it in, the smaller ones you can get a copper plate to back up the hole and just weld it closed. Weld will not stick to the copper.

http://www.eastwood.com/welders-helper.html

[Spitz]

So the weld will not stick to the rubber?
That would work well.......the larger holes are about 3/8"....too big for that?

[Willie_B]

So the weld will not stick to the rubber?
That would work well.......the larger holes are about 3/8"....too big for that?

Rubber???  You mean copper.  3/8" is probably too big. Too much heat all at once for a hole that size would not be good.

[Spitz]

Yes copper...not sure where my mind was.  I'll have to see if I can find some copper
Will a flux core weld job be too much heat for basic repairs?....or must I get a cylinder of gas....not cheap up here.

[Merlin]

copper or aluminum.

Make sure you  get the area prepped and flat like you want it to before you go to town welding.

[MiniDave]

Grind all the rust away first, you might find you need to make a bigger patch than it first appears....

Copper is the better backer than aluminum.

[Merlin]

For curiosity and educational purpose, why is copper better than aluminum as a backer?

[Spitz]

Thanks for all the advice.
Yes, will definitely be clearing a wider area to be sure there is nothing deep....but it actually looks very good.
There is a couple of crack at the rear edge of the hood that makes it weak...and a depression at the rear also.
I'm guessing the cracks on the flange can be welded.....but how does one remove the "wow"
...and in my first photo.....is that centre hole factory?  It's dead centre and I'm thinking the Morris badge will cover it...so may leave alone.
You can just see the one split on the far left...it goes through the 90 degrees...so week at that sopt.

[MtyMous]

I'm late to the party, but a good set of copper welding spoons is a huge help when working on a project. I'm a novice as well and I'm glad I have them.

[Mudhen]

My hood has a similar depression to yours...I think my solution is going to be to buy a new one.  I've tried and tried to get the thing flat by hitting it with a plastic mallet on a sandbag and gotten very little results other than bending it in other areas I didn't want.  Being so close to the flange at the back is killing the deal I think.

Extreme novice here, though.  Someone else might be a better metal bumping bloke...or a barely better metal bumping bloke.  Barely better metal bumping bloke bumping bumps out of the bonnet?

(sorry, I'll stop now.)

[Mudhen]

Just got the daily Eastwood email...this will point you in the right direction on the hood - easy peasy.

http://www.eastwood.com/blog/eastwood-chatter/save-that-panel/?SRCCODE=1EM2947&trk_msg=SERUN2HFKVF4F4KP3LG1SVLKTC&trk_contact=AQUR8CE7BJ3SE58BAUTJ79T68K&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=http%3a%2f%2fwww.eastwood.com%2fblog%2feastwood-chatter%2fsave-that-panel%2f%3fSRCCODE%3d1EM2947&utm_campaign=1EM2947&utm_content=1EM2947

Of course, a new genuine hood is only $200 (or $134 for aftermarket)...unlike whatever that 356s fender would be...

[Spitz]

Well....I do have a good MkII hood in the shed......may be easier to just grind the welds off the front lip

[tsumini]

My hood has a similar depression to yours...I think my solution is going to be to buy a new one.  I've tried and tried to get the thing flat by hitting it with a plastic mallet on a sandbag and gotten very little results other than bending it in other areas I didn't want.  Being so close to the flange at the back is killing the deal I think.

Extreme novice here, though.  Someone else might be a better metal bumping bloke...or a barely better metal bumping bloke.  Barely better metal bumping bloke bumping bumps out of the bonnet?

(sorry, I'll stop now.)

You may want to try making a kerf on the stiffener (lip) of the bonnet so you can pop the dent out then weld up the kerf. This essentially shrinks the lip to allow the dent to go back into its original position. Tried to post a photo but got Graphics capacity error on the forum software.
ETA- A shrinking tool may be easier too.

[tsumini]

Thanks for all the advice.
Yes, will definitely be clearing a wider area to be sure there is nothing deep....but it actually looks very good.
There is a couple of crack at the rear edge of the hood that makes it weak...and a depression at the rear also.
I'm guessing the cracks on the flange can be welded.....but how does one remove the "wow"
...and in my first photo.....is that centre hole factory?  It's dead centre and I'm thinking the Morris badge will cover it...so may leave alone.
You can just see the one split on the far left...it goes through the 90 degrees...so week at that sopt.

Original had center hole there. The bonnet catch i seen thru the hole. I have original 1960 Morris and it has the hole in it.

[Spitz]

Thanks for confirming that tsumini

Whether I use this one or grab the MkII lid....I will ultimately need measurements for the two mounting holes of the Morris badge.  Not sure why this one does not have them....maybe at some point it was swapped out for an Austin hood.

[tsumini]

I'll grab the measurements from mine it still had the badge with proper holes.

[tsumini]

I'll grab the measurements from mine it still had the badge with proper holes.

See photo for measurements. in Case I can't load  picture. The badge mounts on two 1/4 Dia holes 2 inches up from bonnet lip and 6 inches between centers and centered on the top rib.
Photo shows two extra holes that shouldn't be there. The PO drilled the badge there and mounted with hex head bolts. Was sure what he was thinking but apparently didn't have the clips for the backside of the badge. Ruined badge.

[tsumini]

So the weld will not stick to the rubber?
That would work well.......the larger holes are about 3/8"....too big for that?

Here's a quick and dirty way to make plugs.
Take a (in your case a 3/8 dia punch new or ground flat. Drill a 3/8 dia hole in a 1/4 thick piece of bar stock maybe 1.5 in wide. Lay the piece of panel thickness flat stock. Drive the punch thru the hole and out pops a plug that you may have to flatten. but should fit right in.
Photo is using 5/16 punch and hole cuz I didn't have a 3/8 dia.  Better yet is to sandwich two pieces of barstock together with a panel thickness spacer in between and a distance from the hole. weld all three pieces at the edge. Drill the appropriate size hole thru both pieces. Then you can slip the panel stock in between the drilled barstock an punch easily with the holes aligned. Jig comes in handy when you need a plug.

[Spitz]

Thanks so much for those measurements !  I've saved the image and printed it out also.

As well as you've explained your punch method.....I am really thick today

[tsumini]

Yeah sorry  I was afraid it wouldn't translate very well. This sketch may help. It's just like a paper hole punch.

[Spitz]

Got it....makes sense!  Thanks, will try that

[Mudhen]

When I welded up all the holes in the floor of my car I just used a hole saw to make the plugs from sheet metal.  Then used a step bit to open up the hole just enough so the plugs fit perfectly.