Latest maintenance on Miss Blue

[MPlayle]

So, the latest on my Panel Van:

This past Sunday (Aug 2) Bruce and I went to one of our usual area C&C type gatherings.  As we got there the clutch pedal started feeling a bit softer than usual and would need double-pumping to go into reverse or first.  I forgot to check the clutch master before we left and part way home I lost the clutch completely - totally soft pedal.  We got it into the parking lot of a Dollar General and sure enough, the master was almost empty.  I had to get a tow back home - thankfully I have roadside assistance with my Hagerty insurance on it.  While waiting for the tow truck, I checked the system carefully: the master was dry; I have stainless flex line from the master to the slave and it was fine; there was leakage from the dust cap of the slave.  I ordered two replacements (one for a spare) from Britich Parts Northwest and they are shipping today.

While waiting for parts to fix the clutch issue, I decided to go ahead with a few other tasks.  1) The van has 7.5" front disk brakes, but has been still using the original non-spacered rear drums.  I have a 3/4" spacer kit from another Mini project (the white Moke I think) and I installed it today.  I pulled the rear hubs off; tapped out the old studs: tapped in the new, longer studs; repacked the bearings; and put it all back together.  2) Next is getting it set up for flat-towing.  I'll get a tow bar from Harbor Freight and an 'L' bar and 1/2" grade-8 bolts from Lowes to make the mount on the front, under the bumper.  3) I also decided to do a couple of cosmetic enhancements that I have been contemplating for a while - adding interior trim panels to the bottom half of the inside of the rear doors, adding trim panels over the 'C' pillars framing the rear doors to cover the exposed backs of the tail lights, and adding the exterior wood kit used on the MK-I/MK-II Estates.

I contacted an outfit in the UK that makes the wood kits that Bruce recommended as they had the best price and are known for their quality kits for the Morris Minor Estates.  I have a Mini wood kit on order from them: £920 for the kit and another £140 for shipping was the quoted cost - about $1500 (which is about the same as I paid for a kit from a different supplier 24 years ago).

I'll make my own templates for the interior trim panels then use some leftover 1/4" paneling to make them and cover with upholstery vinyl that matches the reset of the interior.

[BruceK]

Michael, you might consider getting a local welder to help with your upcoming flat tow rig by adding additional bracing and generally just strengthening everything. There are plenty of small welding shops and even individual welders out in the country who would love to help with a small simple project like that. 

[MPlayle]

Update on this thread: I got "distracted" by the need to palletize the trailer for the Trking.

While doing that the clutch slaves arrived, so today I removed the old one and installed one of the replacements, adjusted the end play, and bled the system.  The pedal feels good, but I want to get a second set of eyes on the travel before trying to fire it up and see how it is working.

Once the clutch system repair is verified, I will go back to setting up the flat-tow mountings.  I also have a battery cut-off switch to install as part of the tow setup.

Then it will be on to the trim panels while waiting for the wood kit.

[MPlayle]

Bruce reminded me I have a small, cheap action camera and that I could video the clutch movement to check it by myself.

As shown, I have good clutch arm movement again.  A short loop around the parking lot afterward confirms nice clutch action again.   

[Scargo]

Michael,

If you're looking for a tow bar, I have one for classic Mini that I purchased from Seven Enterprises eons ago. It's in my attic collecting dust.

I'd been happy to get it down tomorrow and take a photograph of it for you if you think you might be interested.

Shipping it from VA. to TX. might be a deal breaker for you though.

Let me know.

[MPlayle]

Scargo,

Thanks for the offer, but I already picked one up from Harbor Freight.  I also got all the necessary extra grade 8 hardware at Lowes.  I just need to measure the distance between the subframe bolts accurately so I can template out the mounting crossmember (2" x 2" x 36" angle bar) and drill all the appropriate sized holes (1/2" bolts).

[MiniDave]

26" between the bolt holes, just FYI.

My mounting bolts are 1/2" X 6" long, to space the crossbar out far enough to miss the lic plate bracket, however, that's on my later model car - I don't know what year your van is, so your mileage may vary. Also, I used black pipe for the spacers - cheap and easy to cut to size.

[MPlayle]

Dave, thanks for confirming my measurement.  I am also using pieces of black-pipe for my spacers.

My Van is a 1983 model and seems to still have the factory front plate brackets.  I am going to try to use them as extra center supports for the tow mount crossmember with it behind the plate brackets and as close to the front valance as possible.  I plan to "split" each bracket at the bend and insert the crossmember, then bolt the brack pieces to the crossmember.  If I can't get that to work, I will just remove the plate brackets.  I will be trying to finish up that effort early next week.

I did finish installing a battery cut-off switch on the ground line, so now I can disconnect the power easily while leaving the steering unlocked when flat towing.  I found a nice 3" x 3" 'L' bracket at Lowes for making a mount plate and attached it to the support post over the tunnel at the center front of the load deck.  It makes the key handy to reach, but tucked behind the line of the seat backs in a protected place.  I also used new cables to connect the switch to the body and the battery.

[94touring]

Pipe for spacers work.  If you can grab the spacers Lowe's carry that fit snuggle over the bolts and arrange them so they overlap making one solid sleeve, that does give a little more rigidity to the unit once it's all torqued down.

[Dan Moffet]

Does your van have solid or flexible subframe mounts? The subframe front bolts/tow ring are bolted to the subframe, with the front clip supported by them (flexible or rigid). The licence plate brackets are welded to the front valance (chin) and are not really structural.

Since you are towing by the subframe, the minor flex of a connection to the plate brackets may induce metal fatigue and cracking somewhere.

On my Mini, a broken wishbone bracket at the firewall was enough to induce a crack in the floor pan where the subframe tail bolts on. The cause of the "crack" sound from the floor every time I shifted gears eventually was traced to the failed bracket way up on the firewall. The wishbone bolt also tore a hole out of the steel plate the heater hoses go through (or master cylinders on a rightie).

I'd go around the brackets or cut them off.

   

[MPlayle]

Does your van have solid or flexible subframe mounts? The subframe front bolts/tow ring are bolted to the subframe, with the front clip supported by them (flexible or rigid). The licence plate brackets are welded to the front valance (chin) and are not really structural. ...

... I'd go around the brackets or cut them off.   

I have not yet determined whether mine has the solid or flexible piece at the subframe to front-panel connections.

The comments about inducing metal fatigue along with concerns about how the backets would make the crossmember align with the subframe bolt holes are moving me more to just removing the front plate brackets.  (The Van came from the Netherlands without plates and Texas only issues a rear plate for Antique plates, so no front plate anyway.)

[MPlayle]

I will have some time before the next steps to installing the tow bar.

I have been strongly considering getting a second Mini again and want the option of flat towing it as well.  As such, I tried contacting Harbor Freight's support to see about a second set of the tow bar mounts.  It turns out they don't do spare parts for the tow bar units.

I really have no need to get a whole second tow bar unit, so I dropped by a local metal fab shop I have used before (They even remembered me!) and left one of the mounting brackets with them to make me another pair.  It will be about 3 weeks due to their current work load.

Meanwhile, I will start work on the desired interior trim panels I want to put on the rear doors and 'C' pillars beside the rear doors.

[MiniDave]

I don't feel like it puts any real stress on the front subframe when you use the welded cross bar like that. I know Willy B just has the u-shaped brackets bolted to the subframe mounts on his and it tows fine, but I like the idea of the cross bar for extra strength.

I also drilled out the holes in the subframe and used 1/2" grade 8 bolts instead of 3/8"....Ace hardware carries the bolts, nuts and washers I used

[94touring]

If you have the rubber subframe to front panel mounts, you can remove and add a steel piece to make it solid.  The cross bar on later model front license brackets can slide behind them.  A 2 inch piece of angle iron just needs a notched area in the center for clearance. That's how I used to make them anyways. It just helps spread the load out if things get squirrely.  1/2" bolts are recommended and like I said overlapping the spacers to make a solid sleeve helps prevent bending action on the bolts that end up with a bit of length where the spacers are. If things get loose somewhere the bolts will bend. I've been there done that. 

[MPlayle]

I know about the bolts bending.  Years ago, I used 8" long 1/2" grade 8 bolts and pipe spacers without a crossmember to space the mounts clear of the bumper.  They proved too long and allowed too much flex.  I had a catastrophic failure - one bolt bent, the other sheared.  Fortunately, I was at very slow speed in a parking lot when the failure happened.  Things had felt squirrley and I had pulled off to check when the failure occurred.

Since then, I learned about using the crossmember and keeping the bolts just long enough for the crossmember to clear the the curve of the front panel.

I imagine you can go without a crossmember if you go with bolts and spacers just long enough to put the individual brackets basically flush with the front panel and let the tow bar knuckle movement accomodate the slight angle from the front panel curvarture.

[94touring]

A lot of force gets applied from the car being flat towed. I learned this fabbing up the flat tow bar on my bus.  It surprised me a little bit. I'm about to embark on a 4k mile flat tow trip with it and mildly anxious even though I did all the testing ahead of time.  Minis are a lot easier but as you've found you can have catastrophic failures if all precautions aren't taken.  I've flat towed minis so many miles it's crazy. Last time flat towing was the bus pulling the mini, but it pushes the the bus around too much for personal comfort in certain situations, so won't do that again.     

[Dan Moffet]

The spacers between the front panel and subframe affect the shape of the wheel arches. It can affect the tire clearance especially if ride height is on the low side, like when the rubber cones have collapsed or getting there. Too much shim and the edge of the wheel arch gets drawn inward and the tire rubs. Been there, done that..

[Dan Moffet]

....  I've flat towed minis so many miles it's crazy. Last time flat towing was the bus pulling the mini, but it pushes the the bus around too much for personal comfort in certain situations, so won't do that again.     

You apparently live an "interesting" life. Are you one of those guys who says "Hold mt beer..."?