The next project mini is in the works. More updates in a few weeks..
Looks like a decent starting point.
Game plan for now is replace a few panels and paint the underside till he's ready for the rest.
So what is the plan with this one?
See above lol. Got some door skins, valance, apanal perhaps, and cills to work on. A bunch of gunk on the underside to clean up too.
Nice car, Dan!
I'm excited to get the ball rolling on this car. I've had it probably 5 years and did a little to it. I stripped it for the most part, removed the valence that was rotted out, welded in new Mk1 taillight panels, and started repairing one of the door skins. It is pretty solid but based on what I found with the doors, anywhere there is primer sprayed, it's a cover up for rust. The bottoms of the doors looked like they sat in salt water.
This is the third project car I've had. First two were old Chevys. One is still in the works but nearly finished. I don't know why but these Minis intimidate me so I asked Dan for some help. My wife has never been fond of my old cars but did say she wants a Mini of her own. She can't have this one!
Jeff
I never learned how to paint but am pretty good at welding and replacing panels. Here were the other cars that got in the way of the Mini. Before and Afters. The truck is still not quite finished - has an electrical glitch that I can't find.
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/404942981.jpg)
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/404942980.jpg)
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/404942979.jpg)
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/404942983.jpg)
Wow nice looking rides!
Very coo 4.gif
Nice! Looks pretty good!
Cool before/after pics. Seems like it would be harder to do one of those, just because of the extra square footage! :o
Car showed up today! Overall looks solid. We have a nice brand new minitec subframe in a box ready to go on also.... exciting stuff.
Pictures and cool stuff.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1271)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1272)
Today I got the subframes off, removed some panels, and started the test fitments. Needs thrown on the rotissier, cleaned up, blasted and painted behind the panels before I toss them back on.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1278)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1283)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1284)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1285)
The boot has some issues in the corners, much like Deans car I just did.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1287)
Some shady patch work.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1274)
Got it up on the rotissier today and began de-gunking the underside. A lot of waxoyl under there along with undercoat. Used a new tool called a needle scaler and I am happy with how it knocks off undercoat. I'll need to go over it with the sandblaster to finish it off once I finish knocking it clean. Took off the front end which was beat up and rusty.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1293)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1292)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1294)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1296)
Placed a large order of parts this morning. New rear subby, brake conversion, wheels...all sorts of good stuff.
Quote from: 94touring on January 03, 2013, 10:30:29 AM
Placed a large order of parts this morning. New rear subby, brake conversion, wheels...all sorts of good stuff.
Crap...I thought things like brakes and wheels were ordered a minimum of 2 years after the project commenced...
OEM rear subframe or aftermarket? I'll be needing one in the future...
How's that scaler thing work? High pressure water?
I'm more of a two weeks top to bottom kind of restoration guy, haha. With the exception of my pickup!
OEM powder coated subby with exhaust hangers. The subby I pulled off was beat up and rusted pretty bad. All new everything in the back...bushes, brake assembles, hi-lows, cones, and adjustable shocks.
Needle scaler works with air, and not much air at all, I was surpised. The needles vibrate and move around rapidly causing loose "scale" to fall off. Its not too powerful that it dents the metal which is good. The waxoyl is a little gunky and doesn't just chip off like the undercoat, but gets enough off that a pass with the sandblaster will finish things off. The sandblaster doesn't do anything to undercoat since its so thick.
Cool tool! I like the "needler" . I was looking the other day at dry ice blaster. Amazing tool, not sure it's for this application though.
Did a little work today. Continued cleaning the bottom, cut out some areas to be patched, found some more rust, and got the cill areas cleaned up the rest of the way. The needle scaler lets you know when you find rusty weak metal, it bust right through it.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1299)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1300)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1298)
Have a handful of days to get busy on this car. So here's todays work.
Fixed up a couple botch patch jobs from its past.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1303)
Getting this part out was rather tricky.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1305)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1306)
Much better once this is welded and cleaned up.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1310)
Right side cill ready to be put on. Primed up and painted. This is some old blue I'm using up to paint the backside of the cill/door frame sections.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1309)
Showing the fab work in the floor section that needed cut out and replaced. Also you can see where I've started pulling up the sound deadening/dynomat crap from the factory. Notice they didn't paint under it, just primer.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1301)
Quote from: 94touring on January 15, 2013, 08:10:00 PM
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1310)
Is that the floor NOT welded to the rear quarter panel or something?
Mine is the same way - was thinking it was from some previous crappy workmanship - maybe the factories crappy workmanship??
It will be. I took off the patch piece someone layed on top of things. The factory piece is spot welded along the lip.
Quote from: 94touring on January 16, 2013, 07:23:17 AM
It will be. I took off the patch piece someone layed on top of things. The factory piece is spot welded along the lip.
Sorry...put the wrong pic in my post. I meant to ask about the inside of the sill:
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1309)
You must be looking at the rearward section, yeah that's factory. Its just a ledge that keeps the rear pocket from the cill really.
I've done a little bit to get the engine ready to drop in when I get the car back. I had a new timing belt, clutch, and front and rear main seals replaced. I was going to try it myself but the local Honda mechanic said he'd do it for 2 hours labor plus parts. I also took the valve cover off and shaved the Honda emblems. Dan is going to paint it for me. Last, I took the engine harness off and sent it off to a guy in California that adapts them to work with Mini's.
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/405319982.jpg)
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/405319979.jpg)
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/405319981.jpg)
Cill on.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1312)
This bastard was tricky due to the curves and bend where it meets the lip.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1313)
This rear corner the way the patch panels worked out I have a double layer, so painted up and sandwiched together. I made the bottom skin so it will blend with the curvature of the spare tire holder, and the closing panels/subframe plate will cover the other section along the wheel arch. Still have my share of cleaning and blending to do.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1314)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1315)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1316)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1317)
Wrapping up the right rear corner.
This is how the day started.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1318)
Next up was taking the closing plate and fitting the subframe mounting plate. I used the left side as a guide to duplicate when I fabbed it up.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1319)
Nicely in place. As a word of advice, make sure you know for a fact the trunions will fit up against the closing panels for the valance. Not a lot of room for error. I almost goofed and had them too far forward. With the valance and closing panels off its crucial you have them lined up properly before welding in place. Had I not drilled out the holes while I was doing my fittings I would have been royally hosed and had to redo a lot of work.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1320)
Cleaned up and primered. Everything blended out nicely.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1321)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1322)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1323)
Next couple days I suspect I will be cleaning the bottom and removing excess waxoyl and seam sealer.
Tetz uses short strand filler over metal repairs/welds...you?
Man that looks nice! My issue with those little 'like' buttons is I can only do one per post. ;D
Just ran out to the garage to check the trunnion area - it's gonna be close... :(
The trunions will fit almost snug against the panel. Its just if you've removed them, be careful positioning them when they go back on.
Yeah I went over the welds with a line of filler, then sand it down flush. Doesn't take much after you grind down the welds, but make it clean and smooth.
Wish I could say this was enjoyable. 20.gif
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1324)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1325)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1327)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1331)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1328)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1332)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1326)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1330)
Spent the first part of the day doing a series of small patches, then threw up the other cill and rear valance. Lots of spot welding.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1337)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1339)
Looking good Dan, I just bought a Dustless blaster to start stripping cars myself and because it is a wet process undercoating just flys off, and best of all no need to de-grease before blasting. Also I recommend dumping the Avco shocks and springs and going with Pro-tec it will make a world of difference in the car.
If you want a 100% brand new wiring harness that goes direct from the ECU to the engine and has prewired relays let me know .
Dustless blaster thats wet, I need to look into that. Sandblasting is messy work. This car had a combo of undercoat, seam sealer smeared in excess, and lots of waxoyl. The needle scaler did good on the undercoat but had to resort to manual scraping with the waxoyl and most of the seam sealer. Sand blaster to do the final clean up.
The guy I'm building this for just ordered a harness thats plug and play. He's going to be dropping the motor in and taking it from there. I need to read over the instructions that came with the subby and verify a few things that need trimming and mount it up to check fitments here soon too.
Quote from: 94touring on January 19, 2013, 07:13:54 PM
seam sealer smeared in excess
I've really learned to hate seam sealer...but I guess it's a necessary evil??? Do you re-seal the seams? Before or after primer?
Looks awesome, man... 4.gif
Either or, but needs primer on top of it. I will need to hit a few areas with sealer, primarily the boot edges on the inside.
Not a lot in the form of pictures today. Needle scaled away the undercoat on the inside and started cleanup there. Finished off some spot welds and put on the Apanel.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1340)
For this Apanel the backside should be flush with the door frame. Use a couple vices to pull it snug.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1341)
Flush on the backside like so.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1342)
There is a lip that needs folded over once everything else is welded up. I started with a hammer, then when I couldn't get the hammer on it, used a screw driver and hammer combo to drive it closer, then my handy vice grips to crimp it completely. Throw on a few spot welds back there like the factory has and its ready to seam seal on both sides for primer/paint.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1343)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1344)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1345)
You wouldn't happen to have any closeups of some of your spot welds, would you? Probably being too picky, but I still hate how mine are coming out. I bought a spot weld setup from Eastwood (castellated cup for the welder and a pair of vice grips for it to sit in) but gave up trying to use it - sort of locked the welder in place too much.
Or maybe the punch tool I bought for making the holes is just too big...hmm....hadn't thought of that one before...
Thanks
An easy way to remove the factory undercoating is using dry ice to turn the rubber to a brittle state and then it bounces right off with a tap of a hammer. Normally less than an hour to do a complete mini floor.
(http://boot2bonnet.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Kotowski-014-1024x768.jpg)
(http://boot2bonnet.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Kotowski-016-1024x768.jpg)
Cool trick Nick, I wouldn't have thought of that. Took me about an hour with the scaler too, but its loud.
Mudhen, close up of spot welds. I user higher power on the welder when I do these. Practice power settings and hole size on some scrap till you get it down.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1346)
Today I bought all the paint supplies, cleaned up the paint booth, and threw on some paint. Got the inside floor primered up too. Will be gone for about a week before I'll have any more updates.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1347)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1348)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1349)
Nick, Tell me more about the dustless blaster, I was thinking it would be a nice side job, on the weekends to earn some cash.
I will post some pictures of it (and a video) when it arrives and I am up and running. It is not a cheap investment as it cost 5k just to start plus the cost of a compressor 185 cfm @ 150psi. You can see youtube videos of it running at www.dustlessblasting.com (http://www.dustlessblasting.com)
The reason I bought it was to strip customer cars as right now I am paying $1600 to have a car stripped with plastic and micro mineral, inside and out. The cost was not the only issue as I was also having to wait 6+ weeks for a car to get done, and transport it over an hour away
As many cars as you do, 6 weeks and $1600 a pop, you will recoup cost in no time I would think. I saw part of one vid, did I understand they are using recylcled bottles?
Yep it uses recycled bottle glass about $9 a a 50lb bag. The thing I like the most about it is that it is PPG certified stripping so I will never have a problem with adhesion.
Back at it today. Masked up the bottom and decided to play with the roof. Doing things kinda all over, but whatever.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1351)
Fixing dings and gouges. Nothing major.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1353)
And then for the time consuming and fun part. For this I figured out width and length center to center. Came up with 45 1/2 inches wide and 64 inches long. Took off two inches on each end, divided by two, measured to the center, and then made 8.25 inch squares.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1356)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1357)
As luck would have it as I turned off the fan to the paint booth to go home, the pvc that sits across the top decided to fall onto this nice new roof. So I get to redo a couple squares and reclear it. I was too tired to cry. I didn't bother to take pics of the smeared clearcoat either.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1358)
Holy crap that is AWESOME!!! 4.gif
So you didn't paint it all white and then just do the black squares? Trying to picture how you masked it off...
Yeah first I painted it white, then I took a magic marker and put spots along the outside of the gutter to lay my tape on. You can see some of the markings in the pictures. Once I had the centerline spot on each end I measured outward and put my marks for the longitudinal lines. I measured inward on the longitudinal lines and was able to establish points along side of the car for the lateral lines. I carefully layed the tape down and then it was a matter of masking all the white off and painting the black squares.
saw the post on MM. That roof looks so sharp. Now you have me wanting to play! haha I will just relax and work on one thing at a time.
Its hard not to look at when I'm working on the car, lol.
Today not much to show off. Got the front end on, then the car off the rotissier and on the cart. Started prepping the interior for paint.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1364)
Made the inside blue today. Now back to my day job for a couple weeks...
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1373)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1374)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1372)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1375)
Quote from: 94touring on February 01, 2013, 04:29:03 PM
Made the inside blue today. Now back to my day job for a couple weeks...
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1373)
What's that little bracket on the tunnel by the rear passenger footwell?? I have it on mine...thought it was something the PO had installed for something, but guess it's factory.
Another question - ever done any removal/installation/work on the rear side pockets? I think I'm going to have to remove mine for the cage install...although I've yet to track down good pics of the main hoop feet...
Ashtray. You're the 2nd guy lately wondering what that was.
I have yet to have to replace the rear side bins. Looks fun though.
Quote from: 94touring on February 01, 2013, 07:06:04 PM
I have yet to have to replace the rear side bins. Looks fun though.
You're sick, you know that don't you...
Dan,
Tell us about your spray booth. Up and down quickly ? Plastic re-unsaleable multiple times? fans Filters?
Steve
Paint booth. Very basic. Pvc pipe and 6 mil plastic. Kind of a poor mans way of doing it, but its effective. I would recommend using 2 inch pipe and having a perimeter along the floor, minus the opening to push a car in and out of. Also a couple pipes across the top to keep the plastic from sagging inward when the fans off. Otherwise its kind of a bear to setup without a few people till you get the plastic wrapped on it. It is rather flimsy at first with smaller pipe and no bottom for bracing till the plastic is on. We used zip ties to stab through the plastic and attach to the pvc at the tops. Home Depot sells zipper doors, which I use for the front to get in and out. Very slick, you just stick them on the plastic, then cut out where the zipper is and instant door. I have an air filter in the back, 24x24 and one in the front. Both are taped up to the plastic to be sealed and sturdy in place. We have one of those high speed shop fans pushing air in from the back. With the doors closed and air coming in it expands the plastic and makes it pretty spacey in there, also keeps anything from getting in and the air coming in is clean. The floor isn't attached so I can replace the plastic as needed. The plastic that comes down from the walls extends onto the floor so the plastic floor overlays on top, creating a seal. Aside from replacing the floor every so often depending what I'm doing in there, the rest of the plastic is holding up nicely. Another benefit is with the shop lights in there it gets warm. Its been literally freezing outside and I'm in there in a Tshirt. If I end up doing more of these at some point I need to upgrade to the larger pipe and maybe have a portable AC unit for the summer. I was going to build a wood frame initially and staple my plastic to that, but I needed something up quick so went with pvc.
Its a great idea this booth. I used to do similar things in my old garage. Box fans are surprisingly good at getting rid of the fumes. What lights do you like to use?
Box fans work, but the high speed shop fan really works! Standard 500 watt shop lights. I finally took off the grilled shields because it creates shadows which makes for tricky painting if you think you see dark/light areas that aren't there.
Back at it today/tonight. Burning the midnight oil getting the roof fixed. I had to fix both a white square and a black square where the stupid pvc fell on it.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1379)
Started on the hood and fender flares. Tomorrow I will do the stripes on the hood, ran out of steam tonight. On plastic pieces I use a plastic adhesion promoter. I also sand up the flares before hand. Can't be too safe.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1378)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1381)
Got the car masked up for body prep. Since the roof is done for the second time, tomorrow after the hood stripes I will begin prepping it for paint. Its a downhill battle now. Also as a tip for masking, run pieces of tape across the openings like so. First time trying this after seeing a youtube clip and it makes it easier and is more stable to work with.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1376)
Got this hood done today. Double the stripes, double the fun.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1383)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1384)
Coming together. Back in a handful of days to continue on the body. Have most of it ready for primer.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1385)
Looking good. You should get a masking machine to help mask up the car. Saves hours of time, as it rolls tape on one side of the paper as your pull it off.
Boy that would be nice, I spent half a day just masking so far. Wish I had all these cool tools you have!
dan,
this is great an all. But hurry up and finish so we can see some progress on the pickup! geeeeesssssssh ;D
Quote from: wevebeenhad on February 16, 2013, 10:05:55 PM
dan,
this is great an all. But hurry up and finish so we can see some progress on the pickup! geeeeesssssssh ;D
:D
Don't worry, the truck is nearing my list! I am wanting to paint Johns car applejack as a rent payment for use of the shop first though. His is an auto we imported several moons ago and is currently old lady green at best.
Man! I love that blue color and the detail on the roof and bonnet stripes is great! Nice work!
Can't wait to see the finished product!!!!!!!!
Not much to show off today, other than I got the body primered. Tomorrow and the following week/weeks that I'm around to work on it is just sanding sanding sanding for paint. I have doors to skin somewhere in the middle of this too.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1387)
I think maybe someone stole the inside of your wing...
Started in on the block sanding and fit some flares to check gaps and such.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1392)
Quote from: Mudhen on February 22, 2013, 03:44:02 AM
I think maybe someone stole the inside of your wing...
Thats where the vtec goes!
Quote from: 94touring on February 23, 2013, 08:19:39 AM
Quote from: Mudhen on February 22, 2013, 03:44:02 AM
I think maybe someone stole the inside of your wing...
Thats where the vtec goes!
Oh ya, I forgot it's going to be one of those.
[unsubscribe]
Project is looking great. I'm really liking that Mexico blue paint. With the white stripes it's going to be sharp.
When you finish repairing a section do you use epoxy primer on the repair and then move to the next repair section? If not what do you do for metal protection while you are working your way around the car? Once all your repairs are made do you shoot the whole car with epoxy primer again before you lay down paint? Lastly do you put anything over the epoxy primer before topcoats?
I ask because I've been using etching primer on metal repair and shooting a rattle can primer on top of that
As I read more on what people are doing I think I may be creating a situation where I will need to sand of f all the rattle can primer and shoot a better primer.
Ooooo....[resubscribe] ;D
Been meaning to ask that very question since it seems like it's a taking a long time for me between repair stages/sections. For my underside rust repairs I'm primering with POR-15 which is incredibly tough stuff and (according to them) you can scuff up and paint right over. But no clue what to do with the rest of it.
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Funerals/GIFS/i-TCtwbxH/0/Th/lurker-Th.gif)
Good questions. I no longer use etching primer,as the epoxy sealer is meant for bare metal that has been scuffed/roughened up. Plus with the etch primer you hve to prime over within the flash period as you're not really suppose to sand it later as I recall reading somewhere. At any rate the epoxy is tough stuff, there's also urethane sealer which is NOT meant for bare metal. I use both, epoxy bare metal and urethane over primered/painted surfaces. You can use epoxy for both however.
When it comes to repairing sections if I have a little metal exposed (as is the case on the front right corner right now) its not a big deal to me if it sits exposed for a period of time. The area is small enough and it onlly takes a few swipes with scotch bright or 320 gritt to remove what little surface rust may pop up. Kind of have to use your best judgement as to wether or not you need to primer the whole car/section or if what you have is minor and can be scuffed in 30 second later. I still have some body filler in the rear to block down and would rather spray the whole car in one shot rather than spend the time to mix small amounts for each section. Saves time and materials this way. But if the entire wing was exposed metal, it makes more sense to seal it so I don't have to spent 15-30 minutes wire wheeling it or hand scuffing to remove surface rust.
Thanks Dan, that is good info I guess you'll spend the same time one way or the other.( Cleaning the gun or cleaning up with a Scotch Brite or something later). Are you a body filler on bare metal or epoxy fist and then filler advocate?
Also I should meantion in the case of something that needs a lot of attention I will sealer primer, flash, and filler primer in one go. Saves roughing up the sealer only to filler primer anyways.
Quote from: snack on February 24, 2013, 08:07:05 AM
Thanks Dan, that is good info I guess you'll spend the same time one way or the other.( Cleaning the gun or cleaning up with a Scotch Brite or something later). Are you a body filler on bare metal or epoxy fist and then filler advocate?
We posted at the same time...and I'm on my phone so its tricky to begin with.
Either or for body filler, doesn't really matter. I would say usually I probably seal first though.
Also I missed a question about the top coat. Sealer primer is meant to be painted directly over with or without sanding. I always sand it regardless to make the surface just that much better, unless of course its floors or undersides within the flash period. Outisde the flash period scuff and paint. Always think adhesion. What will make this paint stick best.
Started skinning doors and did lots of prep on the body today. Primer, filler, and lots of sanding. Door skins and backside painted up.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1431)
Subframe fitted to check clearances.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1422)
With that said, Nick does this look right?
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1423)
Things seem to line up just right here.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1426)
When skinning doors or any kind of lip that needs folded over, use something like a paint stirrer to keep from denting the front side. FYI: not my welds lol.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1437)
Spent quit a bit of time mounting the door and adjusting the shims to get the fitment so it won't rub anywhere. One door to go and a little more body prep. Almost there...
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1439)
Heres an example of why old scrap panels can come in handy. Needed to fix a spot that was rotten and wanted to use the cuvature of the lip.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1405)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1406)
With that said, Nick does this look right?
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1423)
Yep that is how the frame sits, Minitec want you to remove the lower valence and weld it on the front edge of the bumper lip the clear the subframe. But I have yet to do that on any of my builds.
Did the other door today. Decided to skin the bottom rather than disect the whole thing.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1456)
Rather than using the entire bottom door frame repair panel I used a section up to the curve on the bottom. Much easier to keep it clean looking this way, also easier to welding on the curve. As a tip: Weld on the backside when you can, the welds are hidden and easier to clean up on the side that shows.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1457)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1459)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1461)
For knock off panels, and using part of the bottom of the skin, its a dead match. Happy with the outcome.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1462)
Very Nice!!
Building suspension and of course paint. About done color sanding for the final buff.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1468)
90 percent all new back here.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1467)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1465)
Color sanding and buffing day.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1472)
Started reassembling things. Pretty much done once we get new bearings for the front swivel hubs and the shock mounts sent to me. Gone flying for 3 weeks....
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1475)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1473)
Looks awesome!!!!!
Thanks 4.gif
HOLY CRAP!
4.gif
Great job!! I love that color. Is the customer going to put the rest of it together?
Yeah pretty much. I have a couple small odds and ends to toss on.
Looks great, on to the PICKUP!!!
My poor pickup keeps getting pushed back. I have twitchels car to do for a potential buyer (sounds like I sold it already), Johns applejack mini and maybe a car from OKC. Anyone want to work on cars for extra cash? I might start hiring lol.
Quote from: 94touring on April 01, 2013, 04:39:40 PM
My poor pickup keeps getting pushed back. I have twitchels car to do for a potential buyer (sounds like I sold it already), Johns applejack mini and maybe a car from OKC. Anyone want to work on cars for extra cash? I might start hiring lol.
If I lived closer I'd pay YOU to let me help you...that's how confident I am with my skill set. ::)
Now that's an idea, get paid by the help! Restorationmini-university?
Quote from: 94touring on April 01, 2013, 04:51:13 PM
Now that's an idea, get paid by the help! Restorationmini-university?
4.gif
If I take my webcam and flat screen TV out to the garage could it be done online? 8.gif
Most of it probably. I have thought about setting up a webcam in the shop.
I think you should probably count on that car from OKC sometime. haha. It's probably gonna happen.
4.gif
Thats a wrap.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1482)
Looks great! Hopefully we'll see pics when it's on the road.
What is that car behind the cop car? ...And, why is there a cop car there? LOL
I believe thats an old Datson shell sitting back there. There's a cop car here because a cop lives on the property with the shop. Makes for great security!
Quote from: 94touring on April 17, 2013, 05:18:47 PM
I believe thats an old Datson shell sitting back there. There's a cop car here because a cop lives on the property with the shop. Makes for great security!
Ya, sure. Neighbors finally came down from their paint fume buzz enough to call the cops on you! Bastard!
:D
Car looks amazing. :-\
Sorry for the delay. I've had the car a while now and just starting to gather all the parts I need. Lots of little stuff....This week I decided I'd work on the brakes. Here is something I learned about the brakes and fittings you might all already know but I'll put it out there. I bought a pre-flared set of brake lines from minisport. Worked alright but I did have some leftover lines since I'm not putting the car back to stock. I kind of hit a hiccup though when I started putting the lines on. The tee in the rear subframe didn't have a flared port, it was just a straight port but the lines had double flares on them. My neighbor said that won't work and they'll leak soooo...I was not sure what to do and lost a week or more trying to figure out what to do. I was at O'Reilly's one night and the manager knew exactly what to sell me - a flared to bubble adapter. I didn't even know of such a thing so I got 3 of these and I'm done.
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/406560766.jpg)
Last night I finished up bending the lines and took them over to a hydraulic place. They have a miracle machine that flares the lines perfectly every time. They did 7 flares in less than 30 minutes so it was a little expensive but saved me hours.
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/406560769.jpg)
I made my own brackets for the rubber lines to mount to out of some scrap metal I had.
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/406560762.jpg)
I'm almost finished. I bought a pedal set from Steve Alexander rather than getting Wilwood or Tilton pedals that some people use on these conversions.
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/406560767.jpg)
From the previous pic you see I used a 4-way connector. I had to order that off ebay because it was impossible to find locally. The bottom lines comes from the rear tee, the left line goes to the left front brake, right line to the right front brake, and the topmost port goes to the master cylinder.
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/406560765.jpg)
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/406560764.jpg)
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1152/4407107/9319904/406560763.jpg)
I'll mount the pedals tonight or tomorrow and run the line to it. I'm waiting for the reservoir to arrive so that should go on pretty easily. I think I'll start working on the wiring this weekend. I'll post more pics as I progress.
Jeff
Thanks for the update! Glad you found the brake line adapters!
Have a pic to share.
Quote from: 94touring on June 22, 2013, 08:08:36 AM
Have a pic to share.
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Funerals/GIFS/i-jFKjXbj/0/Th/eek2-Th.gif)
I bet that's gonna cook!
He's still working out a lot of little snags along the way. I had to joke a little that the engine fitment is taking longer than the restore did.
I have built a few vtec cars, and would recommend not running the brake lines down on the frame that way as they will rub on the transmission and harmonic balancer when you turn the wheels while the suspension compresses. Also with the wilwood MC's buy the correct adapters for the fill port and dump the stupid bolts that came with them, they will leak into your interior over time, (replaced 3 sets in customers cars) the damage caused by the brake fluid cost more than just using the right parts.