Well, it started one day last winter. He was moving and living in an apartment while looking to builld a house. The mini was living outside. So he asked me to take it back for a while so it would be protected. And while I had it could we replace the radio.
This is a 62 mini I built from pieces and gave to him when he started to drive. He drove it through high school, but rolled it after his senior year. It was quite a mess but I pulled it back to shape and painted it it 1999. He limped it through the college years gradually making improvements. The ensuing years saw it upgraded to a 1275, rod change along with "S" brakes, new interior, etc. It eventually got to be a pretty nice, and reliable car but the engine was a bit tired. So after a while waiting to do the radio and for the house to be finished he said why don't we rebuild the engine. So he helped me take out the engine and get it ready for machine work.
While the machine work was in progress, he suggested that while the engine was out, why don't we paint it.
Gulp, it looked OK before but with the accident and all, there is quite a bit of paint, and I did the fixing after the rollover in a bit of a hurry as I was up to my ears in work and getting ready to go overseas for a while. So repainting it was going to be a bit of a project and we decided to just go the full route and have it blasted. Well when it came back all cleaned up, I was surprised that the work I did to straighten it so many years ago wasn't all that bad, but there was a lot of room for improvement. So it became a full body rebuild.
Now if I can figure out how to post pictures........
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/MiniRollover4.jpg)
If this gets attached, it is a picture of progress after the rollover. The roof was flattend down and this was the shot of the hook-up that helped pull it back to shape.
Well, that worked. here is another.
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/MiniRollover3.jpg)
Everything was straightened. No panels were replaced.
And this is "after", as recent as the Mini50 a year ago (with two of its close relatives)
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02205.jpg)
And the strip down and repair begins. This was a little tweaking of the driver's side door fram wich got bent in the rollover and just wasn't "quite right" after.
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02315.jpg)
eventually down to the bare shell.
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02322.jpg)
and off to the blaster
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02324.jpg)
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02326-1.jpg)
Mike looks like you figured out how to link photos. If you need to attach when posting, click additional options and you'll see where to upload.
Now how exactly were you straightening the bent panels? Maybe I can save one of my wings afterall.
Keep the pics and progress info coming, I could look at this all day! Very cool, as I saw this car at the mini50. Mike, are you planning for the mini51?
Dan, straightening sometimes starts with a pull of some sort but always finishes with some tedious hammer and dolly work.
Ron, this one should be done by the Mini51 and we will be there. I was hoping to have my daughter's car rebuilt by then as well but it is looking doubtful.
I don't have a picture as it came back from the blaster. It turneod out better than I thought. I was a little worried about what i might have covered up when I fixed it in a hurry after the rollover. It wasn't as bad as I thought it migh be, but it has required a lot of hammer and dolly wor to get it like I want with minimal bondo finishing. It does have spots all over so it is takling a lot of finishing time. Here are a couple pictures at the start. Two of the heavily damaged ares from the rollover were the right a front and rear corners and they required some more work.
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02367.jpg)
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02371.jpg)
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02373.jpg)
Looks like a pretty rock solid shell.
We had a pretty good weekend of work. It is now on the rotisserie and we got a lot of sanding done. We found the first rust. A small spot on the rear valence which I hope to fix tonight and straightening the valences is tedious. We don't want to replace panels so a lot of "tapping" is always in order. More pictures are coming. But we had to have a inspirational moment so we finished and painted the boot lid. It was still quite a mess from the rollover. Did a lot of panel beating 1.gif and even standing on it to get the original shape back.
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02407.jpg)
Looks great, what color is that?
Dan, it is a 2010 Ford Mustang color called Grabber Blue. It is a 70's retro color that is solid with no metallic. The code is CI.
The car is on the rotisserie. Tonight was smoothing the rear valence. Still have to weld up the rust on the right end which is the only rust on the car. And tonight I fiddled with the left side door opening which was really crushed in the rollover. I think I have to do a little more jacking which will probably also be part of the activities tomorrow. But getting close to doing the final sanding before complete paint. I'll start with the bottom. Maybe this weekend.
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02408.jpg)
Looking great! I haven't touched my Mini in nearly a year. I kind of got burnt out and needed a break. This summer I've been biking a lot but I feel the mini bug building up again. Seeing stuff like this gets me excited about my project again. Keep up the good work and keep the pics coming.
MiniGene, I can understand getting stalled. Get out and get going! You can see a van in the background that has been stalled for abot 15 years. It does take a little prodding to get us moving. As Macmanron hints, the push here in the CMU Mini51 in Erwin Tennessee this October. The Mini50 in Townsend in April 2009 was such a great success I can't miss the 51, hopefully with at least 3 of my minis. I had hoped to have my Daughter's car rebuilt for it as well but that goal may be slipping. This is from the Mini50 with the three of us. Macmanron actually took that picture (Thanks Ron). And I will follow up with another progress picture tonight.
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02204.jpg)
A friend of mine did some body work on a roll over Mini last year. He made a tool to pull the drip edge out. Seemed to work pretty good.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/Pflashinaz/Dans%20Mini/DWsMinipullingthedriprail018.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/Pflashinaz/Dans%20Mini/DWsMinipullingthedriprail002.jpg)
Azbornmini, nice pictures. I appreciate what you are doing. What are you hooked to? Is it just the door frame or is it reinforced somehow? Nice fixtures to hold on. I could use some of those.
Here are some pictures of tonight's progress. I didn't have as much time as I hoped but I did get the rust in the valennce fixed. I apologize. I won't usually bore you with this level of detail. But I wanted to say that I am really old school and I really admire you guys that are so good with MIG. I haven't mastered it yet. I have always done my work with oxy-acetylene. I did this patch with that technology because that is what I have always done. I have even patched rust in big American car hoods that way. I will keep trying to learn MIG but this is what I did tonight with the old school technology.
The rust cut out.
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02409.jpg)
and with the oxy-actylene patch welded in,
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02410.jpg)
and with a first coat of bondo skim.
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02411.jpg)
on to tomorrow's progress
Just curious how long it takes to use oxy acetlene on something that size? Never tried that before.
It was less than 30 minutes.
I can see how that would be useful in certain situations, I'll have to consider that method. Do you think you'd run into issues with it warping flat panels?
OH also meant to ask if your boot lid is BC/CC, and if so how did you think it sprayed vs what you were use to?
Dan,
It sure can lead to problems when gas welding a flat panel. I have worked on that for many years and can do it pretty well. But that is also why I am trying to learn MIG and have invested in a panel spot welder because i don't get as much practice as I used to.
On the issue of BC/CC, I withhold judgement. It worked really well on the boot lid. I could lay down the paint and I provbably used too much of teh base coat. This weekend I hope to get to doing the bottom and inside. It will be a little more difficult to have good access to all the spots in those areas for even coverage. But I think I like the BC/CC.
Quote from: MEhinger on July 30, 2010, 07:31:09 AM
Dan,
It sure can lead to problems when gas welding a flat panel. I have worked on that for many years and can do it pretty well. But that is also why I am trying to learn MIG and have invested in a panel spot welder because i don't get as much practice as I used to.
On the issue of BC/CC, I withhold judgement. It worked really well on the boot lid. I could lay down the paint and I provbably used too much of teh base coat. This weekend I hope to get to doing the bottom and inside. It will be a little more difficult to have good access to all the spots in those areas for even coverage. But I think I like the BC/CC.
I told you I'd look this up at that other website. So far your repair/refinish Mini looks to be going well. I said it before and I'll say it here also, if your painting a car complete like this, don't waste good money on painted areas no one will see. Use the lower priced products in those areas, and save the good stuff for the areas it will be most appriciated. If it's covered with carpet and other products, that's more than enough protection from the elements.
Your Mini and your choice of color is awesome.
MD, I now agree with you. But this time I already had the paint and went the way of good paint everywhere. As you say, It is not worth it for the inside. I have been told the BC/CC is more durable against typical fluids so I would still try to use in the the engine compartment. But I agree with you for the rest of the "hidden places". Thanks for the advice. Here is where I am after the weekend.
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02412.jpg)
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02413.jpg)
Great pictures. Looks like you're moving right along and will have the whole thing done in no time.
At the end of last night.
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02416.jpg)
:-\ Wow, that looks better then the top side of so many cars these days.
Quote from: MD-IN-UK on August 04, 2010, 12:55:50 PM
:-\ Wow, that looks better then the top side of so many cars these days.
+1
Finally masked and ready or paint
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02417.jpg)
After the sealer coat
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02420.jpg)
Base coat
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02421.jpg)
clear coat
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02423.jpg)
The top will be white. Assembly can start.
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02426.jpg)
Beautiful!! Still admiring the color choice too.
My geuss is you weren't too worried about overspray on all the other stuff in the garage?
Looking good so far. Is sanding and buffing going to be the next phase? Looks like your going to have yourself a real show stopper on your hands. 4.gif
Lovin it! 4.gif
One more picture.
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02427.jpg)
I am not sure how much buffing it will need. I am sure it could be improved by buffing but not sure how much. There is a little texture where I am still learning how much paint I can put on before it runs off but it has settled in quite well. And in spite of what it looks like in the garage, I don't get much dust. I water down the floor before I start.
As I have said, this is the first car I have done in 12 years. It has me pumped to move on the the next ones. I need to hone my MIG skills.
If there are minor dust bumps and orange peel, I use 2000 grit wet paper and then work my way down with buffing compound. Comes out to perfection.
Looks nice, love that color.
Progress is slow but steady. The rear subframe is rebuilt and installed and the front is in progress.
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02434.jpg)
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02436.jpg)
What did you end up painting the subby and other parts with?
Rear subframe is with POR-15. Parts are generally with black BC/CC. I am having the front professionally blasted and I will use BC/CC. I know the paint is expensive (boy do I know it) but I want to try the BC/CC to see how durable it really is. I probably won't do that on the next one.
it's loooking very good so far!
I haven't posted in a while but work is progressing. It may not look like much. I have used mostly new nuts and bolts. Everything is targeting the Mini 51 so I better get busy on the motor.
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02438.jpg)
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02439.jpg)
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02437.jpg)
I am using a new gasket for the rear window. It is one opiece but it is too long and I have to cut it. Does anyone have any words of wisdom about making the cut so it doesn't wind up too short with a gap?
If you have never installed this type of glass before, consult an old school glass technician. The rubber will appear to be too large for the glass. It go's into the opening first, then the glass go's into the rubber. If you cut it at all, you'll be sorry.
Be sure to get the molding insertion tool for the chrome locking strip as well, as you'll never get that installed without one.
Like MD said, put the rubber in first and then the glass. I believe some are universal for front and back, and if I'm not mistaken the back is not as long? You could test fit on the glass to get the proper length and leave some extra length as one method to ensure you don't come up short. I use dish soap to lubricate the glass when inserting and carefully go around the edges with a flat head to get the rubber lip over the glass. Take your time and don't stress the glass too much. I also have found using a small bead of silicon both on the window frame lip and inner rubber groove where the glass sits will prevent water finding its way in later. Regarding the filet tool for the chrome strip, I never have had luck with that. I bought one to use and all it did was bend and break on me. I suffer and use a small flat head and work it in slowly and painfully while protecting the paint with a rag in case I slip with the screw driver. I need to find a better fillet tool!
I purchased my "fillet" tool from Snap On. It has a head on it that will accomadate 4 sizes of locking strip. Don't be fooled and think that you can get away without the chrome strip either, as some guys have in the past. The glass may seem to be snug enough without it, but it isn't. Once that strip go's in, you can see and feel the differance.
Sounds like my next purchase will be from snap on.
Here's a shot of me installing lock strip in Simon's Mini. This tool is Mini specific, non interchangeable head. Must be at least 25 yrs. old.
(http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk153/limmey/DSCN3577.jpg)
Can't wait to see it at the Mini51. Looking forward to see all the people I got to meet! I'm going to make it a point to meet more people this time!!!
A lot of progress but not too much that is visible. The body, suspension and interior are almost back together. I've gone a bit crazy with using new nuts, bolts and screws almost everywhere. I hope to reassemble the engine this weekend and set it in. I hope to have some more pictures soon.
Pictures from the first time it sat on its wheels. Since then, the windscreen is in, the wiring is in but need to be hooked up, and most of the interior is back in. Build of the motor is in progress.
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02442.jpg)
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02440.jpg)
Lookin good 4.gif Any problems with getting the glass in and the rubber?
No problem with the windows. I've actually done it many times. This time I was a little worried because I had to trim the length of the rear window rubber. I hope to get the engine together, back in and running this weekend.
Looks Great!!!
It's been a while since the last update. The car is pretty much done. here are a couple shots on the jack stands.
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02516.jpg)
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02518.jpg)
It went for the first ride last night. It was too dark when I got back to take some pictures but maybe tonight. There are a few little things to finish up. But the concern now is the clutch was slipping some. Not sure what is wrong. I don't think it is oil. So the engine might have to come out once more.
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02523.jpg)
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/austin%20rebuild/DSC02522.jpg)
MIke, That is looking great!!!! Spot On!!
looks awesome!!!!!
It's almost done....
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/DSC02525.jpg)
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/DSC02526.jpg)
What exactly is left? Looks done to me.
What's left? Is anything ever really done?
I've still got some rattles to chase down, some wiring things to sort out, and put in a few more interior pieces. I'll post a few more pictures. I swapped in a 3-pod binnicle and I need to get the dash lights and a few other things working properly. I can't yet seem to get the gas gage responding properly. It may take forever to get the water temperature gage to work, probably with a new sender. Then the dash cards, the rest of the carpet and a couple door cards. Oh, and I should send the heater face to Ron.
One thing I haven't done yet is to paint and install the seam covers. It is one of my quirks. I haven't put those things on a car in 40 years. Probably a phobia left from my days of using minis as daily drivers in the northeast through the winters. It is a rust thing. But I am trying to get over it with this car,
This has been a long road and my son is anxious for me to turn it back over to him. Then I have to pull my daughter's 61 Morris in for the same treatment. It has been with me since 1969 and has seen a lot of history. After I used it up in it's early days, I fixed it up and gave it to my sister who used it up again as her daily driver though high school and college. After she got married she sent it back for another refurbishment but never did use it again. When my daughter turned 16, she gave it to her to drive again through high school and college. She is now 33 and it is time for one more proper restoration. So it will soon be subject of another restoration thread.
WOW! Good job on this one. 4.gif
Sounds asif the other one has had a terrific life. Can't wait to see the finished pics.
I've been meaning to reply to this thread for a while, but have managed to remain in lurker status up til now. Awesome job on this car! Although it seems like you could use some arches, I love the arch-free look, especially with 10s. I just ripped (literally) my arches off, and although I have some work to do first, I really like how clean and stout the car looks without them. Have you started the other car, yet? Can't wait to see how it turns out. Good luck!
YEs, Send that heater panel to me!!! And throw in a 3 clock mk1 binnacle to keep it company on the trip up here!!! Anyone want to trade a Mk1 for a Mk2????
Donotje, I agree that it needs a little something to break up the color on the sides. I plan to add the black edge covers under the doors and wheel wells. I have a set of very early stainless cover trim but I am not sure i want to use those or if they would really add the right effect. Maybe a pin stripe ala late models under the windows but my son has top pass judgement on that idea. It is just me, but I have never really been in favor of the arches, especially on the MK1's with 10", although they do look good. But that said, I do have a Sportspack so I have to be careful how adament I am on the subject.
Maybe some mild group 2 arches or WPs. Those would cover the wheels without interfering with the lines. I bought some group 2s when I was in England, but now I'm going to get some narrower offset 10s and just use the trim for the bottom edge. There is just something tough looking about archless Minis. With your wider tires, your 62 really has a good stance. As for trim, I've always thought mine needed something down the side too--kind of like the Cooper Sport stripes--but I could never come to terms on what I wanted. I actually like the 1275GT stripes at the bottom of the door which would look good. The only problem is they aren't quite genuine for my car. In the end, it really doesn't matter as it is my car, but I never pulled the trigger either. Kind of like putting Cooper S badges on a regular Mini. Looks good unless you know what you're looking at.
On the "S" badge issue, I guess I feel the same way. Both the mini in this tread and my daughter's are essentially "S". Not real "S" engines although I have a few extra, but 1275 with 7.5" brakes and most of the trim. The both started out as 850s but I put Austin and Morris Cooper badges without the "S". I doubt they will ever be sold so I will not be fooling anyone.
Mike, what did you paint your rear subby with?? I saw a pic of it on MM and I am getting ready to do mine.
Ron, I am pretty sure I used POR-15 direct after sandblasting it. I can't remember for sure if I put basecoat/clearcoat over it but probably. I know I used base/clear on the front subframe. I went a little crazy with that paint. I am not sure I will do it again on the next one.
I thought about having them powder coated, but can't justify the costs! I may just do the POR-15, it's not like I drive my cars everyday.
It has been a long time since I posted here. Well, the car is finished and has been delivered. It is running around Chattanooga and will be at MME,
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/DSC02591.jpg)
I guess it is time to move on. I think it is finally time to get the floor back into my van and get it on its wheels. It needs its own thread.
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/mhehinger/van3e.jpg)