Hello;
I installed this Burlen part number EPK 12EN on my relatively new AUF214 points style fuel pump and setup as per the instructions. Getting about 3 PSI and good volume filled up a 12 oz. pop can quickly spec is 8.4 gallons per hour but I needed a few more hands to check flow so I figure all is good except it will not stop as the points setup did once the carby floats were full and I am uncertain if this is "normal".
Andrew
Andrew, I'm not sure but it seems to me that if all you did was convert from points to an electronic control it should stop and start like before. What did you find out?
Did you contact Burlen and ask them? Or did you find a leak or something to keep it running like that?
Thanks for the reply. I did get an email back from Burlen on January 3rd as they were closed for the Christmas/New Year holiday. They pointed out the same thing that if it still is running it is due to an air leak. In my case, the "test rig" I used had leaks at the outlet end so that is why it kept running.
I installed it on the car and it pumped up the carburetors and then stopped. I also contacted the vendor that I purchased it from and he said it should not run all the time so all is good. Time will tell.
The vendor also pointed out (no pun intended) that if the power is left on for a period of time then the fuel pump should be disconnected as it will damage the coil.
Hey, glad you got it sorted - I didn't even know they had those kits - where do you get them, and what did it cost?
I have a couple of dead SU pumps and I'm sure all that's wrong is the points but I didn't want to put new ones in and have to do it again at some point.
Yes, you shouldn't leave the key on for long periods of time, it will damage the coil in the pump and if you have a Pertronix or other points eliminator kit in your distributor, it could damage that or the ignition coil. If you need to do trouble shooting for lights and such and have the key on the best thing to do is pull the wire to the pump and the ignition coil.
I purchased both a new points pump and then later the electronic conversion kit from Royze Systems in California. I assumed (you know what that means) that the new pump would fare better than it did. I don't think I put more than 200 miles on the car when it left me stranded and banging on the pump to get the car restarted. Took the cover off and it showed the points being pitted which I had been warned may happen as I do not run the car often in the winter months and was told the points work well on an everyday driver.
The kit from Royze is $75.00 less shipping while a new electronic pump is $139. The same from Burlen is roughly $70.00 and $125.00 respectively less shipping. The points type pump was $114.00 from Royze so in the long run it would have been cheaper to have bought a brand new electronic pump. Live and learn 50.gif
Thanks!
I don't know if it's worth converting mine or not.....
Yes kinda pricey. My car is a '62 and for probably 20 years I ran it with a Facet cube fuel pump, even at autocrossing events. The Facet always worked and still does although noisy but that is the nature of the beast.
I chose to go back to the SU pump because I still have the original brackets that the pump fit into and it is much quieter than the Facet and may rig the Facet up somehow as a backup fuel pump "just in case".
I mount those inexpensive electric pumps on 2 of those rubber bobbins, I get very little noise from mine. They're cheap enough - I get mine form McMaster-Carr in Chicago......if I order before 4 pm I have them the next day!