Hey everyone,
Some of you may already know but I run a mini youtube channel and I am in the process of a pretty large engine job. It started as a transition from U-Joints to CV's but now its evolved (damn project creep) and I am 99% sure I will be swapping my big old remote box with a rod change box. Now before anyone says anything I KNOW the remote box is more solid and less rocky rocky. But with the box I have that uses that sandwich plate, the big old housing, and what I believe might be some crumby welding work on the floor the box has ALWAYS given me headaches in terms of fitment and engine position. This has led to constant annoying rattles, misalignment and collision of other parts and all around HEADACHE.
So what I have come to you guys for is guidance on the conversion process.
Current setup is:
- Pre-Verto Clutch
- Remote Gearbox
- 2.95 Final Drive
- U-Joint Outputs
Future Setup will be
- Pre-Verto Clutch (Keep current)
- Rod Change Gearbox (Purchased used from a friend here in the USA)
- 2.95 Final Drive (Keep current)
- New 4-pin Diff (thanks Paul Jeffries)
- CV Outputs
- New CV axles
Are there any special considerations I need to take into account for a conversion like this that you guys can think of?
It appears there are two rod setups that have differing lengths. I don't have any information, but others have referred to it over time. So you will need the conversion bracket to mount the rod assembly. Just measure at least twice before drilling. What year is the car? round or right angles on the remote tunnel?
An additional lower stabilizer will help with the rocking as well.
Right, I went thru this with Stan's car....unless you have a very late model car you need the shorter steady rod. For measurement look in Stan's thread where I put up a pic of both, there was only about 1/2" difference in length, but that sure made it not work trying to use the wrong (longer) rod.
I'm sure you realize that you will need 2 to 3 additional lower engine steadies. A Mini can just barely get away with one so the heavier AA will need more.
Kelley
I agree, without that large remote acting as an engine steady you should have at least one more....but he's removing a remote gearbox in favor of a rod change - in a Mini. There won't be a huge weight difference, just the weight of the remote arm, which is aluminum.
Quote from: mascher on April 25, 2018, 07:52:52 AM
I'm sure you realize that you will need 2 to 3 additional lower engine steadies. A Mini can just barely get away with one so the heavier AA will need more.
Kelley
Just to clarify some things because I might not have been totally clear about it. I have an AA remote in my Mini currently, and I will be swappnig that with a rod change. Still all in the Mini though. I don't have an AA. :-)
Posted at the same time! ;D
Give us a link to your You-Tube channel?
;D
https://www.youtube.com/c/classicminidiy
depending on the year of the rodchange you will need the adapter for the idler gear bearing to take it down the the earlier 4 sync size.
https://www.7ent.com/products/bearing-and-sleeve-kit-idler-gear-dam3745.html
I think he's swapping the whole box, not the guts.....Cole?
UPDATE:
It turns out the box I am getting from Jedduh(justin) does in fact come with the idler gear and the whole transfer case. So I think things just got a little bit easier since I don't have to mate my old transfer case. Now I will have to tap the breather since its coming from a 998. I am kinda thinking about tapping and installing an AN line at the top instead of the original mini breather....
Make sure you have a primary gear that works, as they are different 4 sync vs A+