When I changed to winter tires and brakes today, I noticed that my right-rear wheel cylinder was weaping; just enough to moisten the brake shoe and not tell-tale drip onto the wheel.
In an effort to save shipping time, I made a quick call to the local MG center & racing shop and asked if he had a set of Sprite shoes (Mintex GBS834AF) and a 3/4" wheel cylinder (GWC1102). Luckily, he had both.
Since he wasn't there, we didn't work out a price (and he tends to be expensive), but arranged that I could pick up what I needed from his son at the shop and 'figure it out later'.
What I'd like to do is replace the parts, like-for-like, say thank you for the 'loan' and give him a wee bit o'cash for their trouble, but I'm experiencing that some suppliers aren't altogether honest with their part numbers/descriptions - non-Mintex shoes using the Mintex number, and the same with the wheel cylinders.
Does anyone know if the MiniSport GWC1102 cylinders are genuine Lockheed or are they 'equally-good' impostors? (MiniSpares wants way too much for shipping right now - I don't know why.)
This is what I get from my local Brit parts place, the ones I get from MiniSpares come in plain white boxes....FWIW.
That looks like what I normally buy.
This is the Delphi brand - found the image on an Asian online auction site.
I see I didn't exactly answer your question....I haven't bought them from MiniSport, so I can't say....but the Mintex shoes I got from Spares were genuine Mintex stuff and the ones I get from my local Brit parts place are also.
I'll call MiniSport tomorrow, as well as Leasy Classics (looks like really cheap shipping, but I question whether the GBS834AF shoes are Mintex as pictured), Moss and a guy in Sweden. I just can't see paying the MiniSpares shipping prices right now - they seem higher than the others.
Another action-packed, fun-filled day...
After close to 6 hours, I managed to get the new right-side wheel cylinder fitted, shoes fitted, bled and adjusted and new shoes on the left-hand side. No wonder I haven't done this in around 12 years.
The job is easy enough, but the circlip is killing me. How do ya'all install yours? I really need some qualified pointers.
Today was a good opportunity to try the special tool -http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Accessories/Tools/TOOL14.aspx?0108&ReturnUrl=/shop/classic/Accessories/Tools.aspx|Back%20to%20shop (http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Accessories/Tools/TOOL14.aspx?0108&ReturnUrl=/shop/classic/Accessories/Tools.aspx%7CBack%20to%20shop) - but it looks like it's a one or two time only tool. I followed the instructions, lightly greasing the cone, threading the tool into the wheel cylinder, tightening the nut to move the circlip over the cone. The first circlip got 'eaten' by the tool, the small tabs sliding under the bronze cylinder. Fortunately, I had another circlip on hand to give it another try. This time went better, but I really had to tighten the crap out of it to get the circlip onto the wheel cylinder. Of course, it landed smack-dab over the bleed nipple threads, so I had to try again. Once in position, the tool didn't want to unscrew from the wheel cylinder, so out came a pair of vice grips. The circlip really looked like it wasn't fully in the groove, so a few taps with a hammer/screwdriver and I guess it's there.
Once everything was in place, adjusted and bled, I drove home for a late supper; only to find that tell-tale odor that there's something binding on the corner I just worked on. A pinky finger through the wheel's slots and touch the drum, it's hot - quite hot - compared to the left side. Back in the garage tomorrow for more fun.
Delphi changed their bleed nipples, so although they've got the same thread, they're different wrench sizes. I could re-use the old one, but first I'll have to see how much rust comes off of the threads.
I will do the left side wheel cylinder soon -
Here's how I do the circlip - works everytime and it's easy peasey.
Bend one end tab up, wedge the wheel cylinder with a block of wood or some mole grips. Slip the circlip over the end and engage the two tabs, then take a drift and tap the third bent end down - it will pop right into the slot and you're done.
Good luck!
Sounds like a 3-minute job, éh? When tapping it down, the bent tab doesn't bind too hard on the shank/boss on it's way to the slot?
It sounds too easy - almost can't wait to try it!
Quote from: MiniDave on November 17, 2017, 03:23:02 PM
Here's how I do the circlip - works everytime and it's easy peasey.
Bend one end tab up, wedge the wheel cylinder with a block of wood or some mole grips. Slip the circlip over the end and engage the two tabs, then take a drift and tap the third bent end down - it will pop right into the slot and you're done.
Good luck!
Mole grips?! Next thing you're going to say is "spanner" and "prise" and "whilst" and "anti-clockwise" ;D
Yeah, I read through that. Haven't any moles around here, so I was thinking of asking my neighbor's kid if I could borrow his hamster. Close enough?
Or a nice wedge of wood - or brie! ;D
Early cars just used a snap ring much better I reused my snap rings on the new cylinders after fighting the clips for a while.
Dave's method seems like the best I have heard so far Seems like the install tool gets mixed reviews.
I think if I were going to do mini wheel cylinders I would just go buy some external snap rings in the right size before even starting the job.
McMaster gets about $2 each for those external rings, so that might be worth it to not have to deal with the frustration, but give my method a try, I've found it to be a snap!
Quote from: MiniDave on November 18, 2017, 12:02:39 PM
..., but give my method a try, I've found it to be a snap!
I'm looking forward to it - still have to do the left side.
http://chicagolandmgclub.com/techtips/mgb/536.html (http://chicagolandmgclub.com/techtips/mgb/536.html)
This looks a lot like your method, sans bending the clip. Sometimes I think it would be nice to have a laptop and some sort of Internet in the garage to look for solutions when challenges arise.
Spoke with the MG shop today and will be picking up another wheel cylinder and a couple of external 'C' clips instead of the difficult 'E' clip.
Even though they've got the original factory Lockheed clip tool, they've been using 'C' clips for years on both road cars and race cars; installing them with a pair of circlip pliers. The owner says it takes only a couple of seconds to install and works a treat - maybe I'll be able to so the install at his heated shop instead of my frozen garage. (Winter temps are here!)
Interesting. Makes sense. Please remember to share your experiences with the normal circlip.
That's why I'll try to leave the shop with a spare so that I can measure it up.
Weather.com says it's in the 50's (11C) there in the daytime.....hardly freezing but when it's damp it I'm sure it feels like it!
It was 40°F in the garage this afternoon, currently 35° here at home - but it felt like 12. It's been grey, windy and raining a lot lately, which certainly takes the fun out of most things.
We had a horrible windy and rainy day yesterday, non-stop slushy / frozen rainfall the entire trip up to the estate. After a quick check to see if any trees had fallen during a recent storm, we decided to head out to dinner (20 year wedding anniversary; went to the bistro at Dragsholm Castle (recommended: http://en.dragsholm-slot.dk/ (http://en.dragsholm-slot.dk/))) and they were salting the highway yesterday on our way home.
Saturday evening, it got down to 27°F.
As circlips go, they're not the most exciting, but the MG shop (http://mgpartscph.com/ (http://mgpartscph.com/)) has been using them for decades. I should be able to get to my garage tomorrow and install them.
That's just shy of 5/8" for us in the colonies
Crap - I've gone global. 9.gif
Quote from: MiniDave on November 21, 2017, 06:01:29 PM
That's just shy of 5/8" for us in the colonies
So call it 19/32nds? ;D
Quote from: BruceK on November 21, 2017, 07:00:30 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on November 21, 2017, 06:01:29 PM
That's just shy of 5/8" for us in the colonies
So call it 19/32nds? ;D
If I were to order a few of them, I'd measure the groove on a wheel cylinder and find something as close as possible to the groove's diameter to fit. I haven't a caliper here in the apartment and can't get to the garage 'til tomorrow (it's 3AM...)
As Jens Peter 'splained, the wheel cylinder needs to be able to move about very slightly, which it does with either the E-clip or the circlip, so I really don't think it's more than it is. But he did say that it takes only seconds to install them and he hasn't done an E-clip in decades - without any problems or failures.
Easy peasy - I even swapped the standard E-clip on the left rear with a circlip without removing the brake line or bleeder. Seems to work well, both cylinders sit secure and they literally takes only seconds to install. 77.gif
Seems so simple and logical. I kinda wonder why we haven't heard of this before now?
I guess the parts suppliers couldn't sell the special tool...
May not be out of the woods yet - Some of the Sprite / Midget message boards mention using a thin washer (OEM design) behind the circlip. This sounds like a pretty good idea, so I'll ask about it at the MG shop.
http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?3,2326769 (http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?3,2326769)
The parts:
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Retain-Ring-5DA81?searchBar=true&searchQuery=5DA81 (https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Retain-Ring-5DA81?searchBar=true&searchQuery=5DA81)
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-0-135-3-Wave-302-Stainless-6ZA12?searchBar=true&searchQuery=6ZA12 (https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-0-135-3-Wave-302-Stainless-6ZA12?searchBar=true&searchQuery=6ZA12)
you can also just clamp your circlip in a vise and put a little bend in it or do nothing and it'll be fine too. Most of the time the method people use get the e clip style on there is not much spring left in it in that direction anyway.
At least that's what I have experienced.
The wave washers would be correct though my car had them and I did use them.
Since I can't order the wavy washers from Grangers (an international-shipping restricted item, apparently), my brother is sending some to me.
The local MG shop has been using just the circlip for decades, both on their road and race cars without problem, but I'd feel better knowing that there's a little less free-play there.
I was rummaging through the MG center's library and thought this was funny - check the 'note'.
Currently researching belleville washer specs - but I believe McMaster-Carr has what is close to the OEM spec - if I can find the OEM dimensions, it'd be really swell.
Does the book show a pic of the circlip installation too? I wonder if it's the same as what MiniSpares sell today? Bruce and I both have the too; and find it to be less than successful to use most f the time.
I have to believe if they only made the cone shaped part out of hardened steel instead of butter it would work a treat.......
My MiniSpares circlip tool is also quite scarred, even though it was well greased.
I'm thinking about giving these folks a call to hear if it's as pictured and if it works.
https://www.northwestimportparts.com/MGB-Rear-wheel-cylinder-circlip-install-tool-62-80-d2482.aspx (https://www.northwestimportparts.com/MGB-Rear-wheel-cylinder-circlip-install-tool-62-80-d2482.aspx)
This is like the one that the MG shop has (17H7949T) and while it has fewer scars than mine, he hasn't used it in years.
http://www.lbcarco.com/ (http://www.lbcarco.com/) also lists the 17H7949T, but you need to use the 'search' button and there isn't a picture.
Edited again - I just looked at one of the old mini service manuals and it references a circlip and dished washer - I lack a microfiche or comprehensive parts list - the only 'mini' diagram I've got which shows a washer behind the clip uses a current part number 'E-clip' (17H7949) and a washer which is currently unknown to me (17H8901).