I've compiled a small list of info about parts from other forums.
Please feel free to add to the list as you see fit....
DDB108 Distributor Cap
Top entry cap for Lucas 43D, 45D and 59D distributors. Fits many Lotus, Minis (post 74), Land Rovers, English Fords, Jensens, Triumphs, Sunbeams, Innocentis and many other models with 43D/45D & 59D distributors. See DRB104C for matching rotor.
Distributor rotor for later Minis (1974+ up to electronic ignition) and Metros. Search for DDB108 if you also need the distributor cap. 45D & 59D distributors.
09041 Bosch Plug Wire Set
1968 - 1980 MG 1.8L engine
The following came from here... http://www.miniownersoftexas.org/wiki/index.php?title=Modern_equivalent_parts_for_classic_Minis
Air Filters
Here is a list of the "stock" replacement K&N air filters for different Minis.
K&N Part numbers:
E-9172 SPI and MPI
E-2601 1275 single carb 1.5" Stock air box also fits AA
E-9001 Use 2 for Cooper S or 1 Mini 850.
E-2600 Stock 1 3/4 air box
Another way to look at it:
E-9001 Carburettor models 1959 to 1974
E-2600 Carburettor models 1974 to 1982
E-2601 Carburettor models 1982 onwards
E-9172 Fuel Injected models
Spark Plugs
When it comes to spark plugs, a little "performance" tip here! I've been using Mazda 12A (NOT 13B) rotary engine plugs (NGK or Nippon Denso) for many years. I just tell the guy at the parts counter that I need plugs for an early 80s RX7. Everybody thinks the 4-electrode plug is something new and innovative. Mazda's been using them since the First Gen RX7 and the old RX3 & RX4!
Spin-on Oil Filters
The filter for mid-80s Chrysler 2.2L engines (Omni, Charger, Horizon, etc.) fits and works perfectly.
AC DELCO 93156323
AC DELCO 25011520 (PF 53)
AMSOIL SDF-57
BECK/ARNLEY 0418988
BOSCH 72150
FRAM PH966B
FRAM PH2870A
FRAM PH3614
K&N HP1002
MANN 056 115 561G
NAPA 1374
PUROLATOR L10028
PUROLATOR L10241 Metro 1.3L
UNIPART GFE148
WIX WL7142
Mobil M1 102
Canister Oil Filters
If you still have the oil filter canister that takes a cartridge, the old Fram part number is CH816PL.
Points
For a Lucas distributor - ask for a Contact Set for an MG 1300, part number MPE CS207SB Points 45d4 distributor (red) RTC 364 Blue Streak Lucas LU-1685 NAPA # ECH CS208
Distributor Condenser
Again - ask about an MG of similar vintage, part number MPE EP29SB.
The kid behind the sales counter at AutoZone claimed that you can't buy separate condensers and that you need an entire distributor - but the very next day, at the same store, the guy looked it up for me and they had it in stock. BE PERSISTANT!
Alternator
I think it goes to a mid 70's MG. I took my old one to a rebuilder. They couldn't get parts for it, so they found a similar one.
Delco (Saturn et al) alternators can also be made to work in a Mini, See Wes' writeup on how to do the upgrade at http://www.adocars.com/elf-ado/alternator/Easy_alternator.htm
Bosch 13107 ('79 Ford Fiesta) alternators are a bolt-on replacement (with removal or replacement of plastic alt. plug) for alternator equipped Minis. See http://www.cibolas7.net/17901.html for details.
Oil
Michael Playle says: The recommended oil "weight" for classic Minis is 20W50 for most climates. This is because the oil does double duty as engine oil and tranny oil. In very cold climates, 10W40 is recommended as a winter weight oil (occassionally 5W30 in REALLY cold areas). In most of those climates, folks are "storing" their Minis indoors for the winter.
Any brand that has a high ZDDP content. I currently use the Valvoline Racing brand.
Other Parts
Rear wheel cylinders (and rebuild kits)
...are the same as the MG Midget. Not as common anymore but you're more likely to have the parts robot find a 1980 MG Midget than a 1963 Mini Cooper in the catalog/computer.
Starter solenoid
My Limey one started to give me trouble. I ordered a new one. It crapped out in a month. Now I have a heavy duty one for a Ford truck. Almost all the Ford solenoids will work. They have an extra terminal on the them. Looking at the front, the small terminal on the right is the start switch.
Starter
I have no idea what it is for. Mine died, and I took it to Bap/Geon. They took it to the warehouse and found one that looked like it. Works fine.
Carb
Weber 45 DCOE carb (with appropriate manifold).
Generic 12v coils
Pre-1984, Minis had external ballast resistors, after that it was inside the coil itself. If you need an external ballast resistor, the moron at XXX couldn't get me a stupid ballast resistor unless I told him what kind of car. I think I said "'74 Dodge Dart, slant 6, auto, green with vinyl roof"
Head Gasket
Felpro has a head gasket for the 1275 Sprite/Midget (Spridget) that works just fine on a 1275 Mini. However, I don't remember the stock number. For engine-related stuff I usually ask for pre-1975 Midget parts. At least it gives the person behind the counter something to focus on. For 848cc engines, most of the mini vendors sell the gaskets as small bore and large bore. 850 is small bore: http://www.minimania.com/web/Item/GEG101%2FCOPPER/AddedFrom/Search2%2DHEAD%20GASKET/InvDetail.cfm for instance. Which means.... you could spec one for a vintage sprite or midget form NAPA. Which means....NAPA Cylinder Head Gasket BA0350140 $13.99 should work fine
Thermostat
Mr. Gasket http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MRG%2D4364&view=1&N=700+150 Other temps are available. Integrated blanking sleeve makes this a winner
So I can actually use rotary spark plugs and I didn't know this??? The 12a plugs I believe a smaller than the 13b plugs, I think. Any idea how much extra juice this provides?
here is my list of what oil filters will fit:
AC-DELCO 93156323
HASTINGS LF155
K&N HP-2004
K&N HP1002
LUCAS F5578
MOBIL M1-102
MOPAR 4105409
NAPA 1374
PIPERCROSS OF106
PIPERCROSS OF106-RBT
PUROLATOR L10028
PUROLATOR L10241
STP S3614
UNIPART GFE148
UNIPART GFE166
UNIPART GFE21
WALMART ST3614
WIX 51374
AC-DELCO PF53
AMSOIL SDF-57
BALDWIN B288
BECK/ARNLEY 041-8988
BOSCH 3330
BOSCH 72150
CASITE CF966
COOPERS GFE1
COOPERS Z25/2
DELPHI FX 0004
FRAM PH2870A
FRAM PH3600
Fram3682
Valvoline VO22
Ryco Z418
Fram PH3816
Lee LF2835
BOSCH 72161
WIX 51348
Car Quest 85374
FRAM PH3506 (for an MPI)
FRAM PH3614
FRAM PH966B
Are all those filters for older models? What about MPI's and such?
the only MPI filter that i know of is :
FRAM PH3506
I'm sure there are others tho
Quote from: 94touring on March 29, 2009, 09:25:05 AM
So I can actually use rotary spark plugs and I didn't know this??? The 12a plugs I believe a smaller than the 13b plugs, I think. Any idea how much extra juice this provides?
Dan, check out the link to the Mini Owners of Texas site and get confirmation there. I'm going to give them a try this spring when I dig my car out of storage.
Henry
Can someone tell me if there are compatible shocks? Just pulled mine off and they are dead.
I brought one of my front shocks to Orieley auto parts but they couldn
bump... Interested in the shock alternatives as well.
Don't know of an alternate set of shocks. I used to get the KYB Gas-adjusts from either GBCarParts.com or MiniSpares.com.
Another alternate spark plug I have used with good success and was recommended by a couple of the old folks now no-longer on the MM forum: Bosche Super W7DTC - copper core triple electrode. The best places to find them now are classic air-cooled VW specialty shops.
this is great info.............you should get some kind of award for this.
THANK YOU!!!
BUMP. Can this be stickied somehow?!
Castrol GTX 20W50
Rotella T6 5W40
Has high enough ZDDP to constitute as a safe classic oil
https://doncommando.files.wordpress.com/2016/07/response_to_zddp_article_from_castrol.pdf
Also
Valvoline VR (racing)
Brad Penn 20W50
Did a little cross reference research from that fram number for the canister filters.
I came up with.
napa - 1184
wix - 51184
fleetguard - LF-633
Next time I do the oil in the 60 I will get the wix and confirm fitment. Whats nice is the local parts store has it no more ordering and paying shipping every time I need filters.
Three notes on the oil.
-- For the most part, 10W-40 should be used. 20W-50 would go into more worn engines or transmissions. If you are worried about the transmission effect on the oil, use a 5W-40 synthetic instead of a 20W-50. 20W-50 causes a lot of wear on startups every day, as it takes longer to get to the valve train and bearings.
-- It should also be diesel formulation for the gear protection (CI-4 or CJ-4).
-- If your mini has an automatic transmission, it really NEEDS oil that meets JASO MA2 wet clutch motorcycle specs.
Looking to replace my fuel pump. Not sure how old mine is but i'm not gonna wait to get stranded later down the road so i'm looking for a good dependable pump. Anything electric and inline. I'm trying not to clutter my engine bay so anything without a regulator would be nice... keeping it 2-3 psi only.
Facet makes some great inline electric fuel pumps. This is the one I installed last year on my Mini, 4 PSI.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013SGH9FQ/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Since I was going from a mechanical fuel pump to an electric one, I also installed a generic inertia fuel cutoff switch just in case.
Like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-FV-7-Cut-Off/dp/B000C83MC8/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1492745001&sr=1-2
Most all auto parts stores carry low psi pumps. The mechanical pumps on these cars just don't seem to last.
When I converted the SPI to Carb, I used the Mr. Gasket 42S pump: 42 gph at 2-3.5 psi.
It is available through almost any local parts store or online.
I mounted it on the rear subframe just below the fuel tank.
On my Corvair I used an Airtex (I think 8016) that has been very reliable for 8 years. Electrics should be as close as possible to the tank. Instead of an inertia switch, I used an oil pressure switch to cut the pump if the oil pressure drops.
On my Mini (SPI-PUP) I ended up using a locally available Toyota pump in tank, then a pressure regulator to drop it to 15 psi.
I was thinking of buying that Mr. Gasket brand but didn't know if it's good since it's sold st Oreillys here.
I read a lot of reviews on different low pressure pumps when trying to locate one for the carb conversion project. Some series of the Mr. Gasket brand had a bad reputation for a while, but the 42S did not seem to have any reported issues with quality and/or early failures. I went with it as it was a very good match to the requirements of the HIF carb I was using in the conversion. The price and availability was good as well.
I've had 3 of the Mr. Gasket pumps, the first two failed - one right out of the box - but the third one has been perfect for over 25K miles.
25d dizzy cap can be found at O'Reillys.
So nice to see it is something not made in China.
MG Midget rear brakes fit a Mini rear brake back plate. There are two sizes the smaller ones are the ones that work i have not looked into the wheel cylinders though.
A Dodge Dakota by pass hose will work for a 1275 top radiator hose.
I've got it from a reputable source that a D16Z6 VTEC Honda motor will fit into a Riley Elf. 71.gif 77.gif
Quote from: Red Riley on August 24, 2020, 11:15:25 AM
I've got it from a reputable source that a D16Z6 VTEC Honda motor will fit into a Riley Elf. 71.gif 77.gif
:D
But the trick is to remove the A-series first!
Good info on oil filter quality. Unfortunately I just bought a fram filter. Looks like I'll switch over to wix or Napa gold.
Quote from: 94touring on March 25, 2021, 05:53:50 AM
Good info on oil filter quality. Unfortunately I just bought a fram filter. Looks like I'll switch over to wix or Napa gold.
This is the NAPA (Wix) one I use in my Mini. It's nice and tall for extra filter material and slightly more oil capacity.
I just went on the ebay and got a box of 12 wix 51374 at $6.60 each. My tundra uses the same filters too so they'll get used up between that and the minis.
Quote from: 94touring on March 25, 2021, 09:43:41 AM
I just went on the ebay and got a box of 12 wix 51374 at $6.60 each. My tundra uses the same filters too so they'll get used up between that and the minis.
Always nice when one filter fits multiple cars in your garage! My wife's Infiniti (gone now) and my Triumph bike both used the same oil filter.
Used my last new set of NGK BP6ES/733 the other day. It seems that NGK has discontinued this plug. Buy em if you can find em till they are gone if you like em. Guess I need to try something else now.
What's special about the 733? I can still get BP6ES plugs....£2.20 ea. on MiniSpares.....
I'll send you a pack.
Edit. Would appear they are discontinued per NKG. Here's a chart also explaining what the new replacement BPR6ES plug may be.
And also worth noting some info I dug up on another mini forum. Interesting enough my mini will scramble the neighbors TV. More pondering I'm wondering if my aldon amethyst issues of random ignition breakup weren't related to the electronic dizzy but rather the plugs 8.gif
"If you have resistor spark plug wires, use "regular" plugs. If you have solid core (non-resistive) spark plug wires, use resistor plugs.
Do not use resistor plugs with resistor wires as this may reduce the spark energy. Do not use regular plugs with solid core wires if you like listening to the radio and respect your neighbors."
I'll buy a few sets from you if you can spare them..............
I'm sure I can spare a few. I don't even run heat range 6 anymore and certainly won't once the turbo goes on.
Quote from: 94touring on March 27, 2021, 04:43:42 PM
I'll send you a pack.
If you a set or two extra I would be willing to buy them from you.
Thanks
I was doing some more research and found you can take the resistor out of resistor plugs and put in a piece of solid copper wire and convert it to non resistor. I'll try to find time to try this experiment in my shop when I'm home next month. Might be an easy enough work around once these NKG's dry up and can't be found.
Well on NGK and Bosch plugs I was unsuccessful on taking the resistor out. Youtube showed autolight plugs being unscrewed and the resistor replaced but on NGK and Bosch it doesn't screw out, but rather bust a shaft off internally. Perhaps the shaft has resistance. Either way it wouldn't go back together without some doubt on how well it would hold up.
Yeah, so just use the regular plugs then?
Quote from: MiniDave on April 13, 2021, 01:56:53 PM
Yeah, so just use the regular plugs then?
As of now unless I can figure out a trick I'm missing.
Resistor plugs and non-resistor wires?
You are already using an extra-high voltage coil that should more than compensate for the reduction due to the resistor plugs.
Quote from: MPlayle on April 13, 2021, 06:33:02 PM
Resistor plugs and non-resistor wires?
You are already using an extra-high voltage coil that should more than compensate for the reduction due to the resistor plugs.
No, there's some plugs you can remove the resistor to make a non resistor plug. I was hoping it was easily done on NGK plugs but it's not the case. But yes, resistor plugs in my case shouldn't be a big deal, although I'm going for maximum spark too.
I guess one option is to buy Champion N9YC non-resister plugs (instead of Champion RN9YC plugs). Champions may not be as highly regarded as Bosch and NGK, but they readily available to use without having to attempt any modification if you want to try a non-resister plug and see how they work out.
https://www.amazon.com/Champion-N9YC-300-Copper-Spark/dp/B000CSNODA
Here's a heat range chart for reference.
Brisk D14YC is the same as a heat range 6-7 in NGK, non resistor, and a few bucks a plug. I had used their gapless plugs experimenting around a couple years ago with decent results.
Anyone know a cross reference for the radiator cap on a standard Mini (998) radiator?
The one on my recently acquired blue 1983 Mini Van is in poor condition and I am trying to see what may be available locally. I tried a search on this site, but came up empty.
I tried searching for a cross reference using the part number from a couple of our favorite Mini parts suppliers, also to no avail.
Any help would be appreciated.
It's a very common size, but you might try the local Autozone or OReilys for one for a Sprite.
I think I figured it out. An early (1973) MG Midget is listed by Autozone as using a Duralast 7009 (9 lb) cap. I know our Minis tend to use a 13 lb version, so searched the Autozone website and the Duralast 7013 is the corresponding part number.
I got one of the 7013 ones to use.
The 1996 Almond Green Mini is about sorted, so I have started the sorting of the 1983 Blue Mini Van and it is the one needing a new cap and a good system flush.
I find the hardest thing to find when buying a radiator cap for a Mini is finding one that is deep enough, most I see are for a more shallow neck and do not seal correctly.
I have found a 13lb one made by Stant that has the red pressure relief tab which is handy.
I will report tomorrow if the one I got actually fits.
The Duralast 7013 radiator cap fits perfectly.
The Duralast pressure release lever kind like Malcolm prefers is PN 7713. These seem to be readily available at local Autozone stores - give us another option.
However, if you're running one of the inexpensive chinesium radiators from ebay, the cap is a Honda Civic cap
Here is something for the late model Japanese spec SPI based Minis with a/c.
I needed to replace the a/c-fan belts in my 1996 Mini-Cooper 35. I ordered a set from Classic Minis Japan. When they came i today, I took them to my nearby Autozone to determine possible "local" equivalent belts.
The two I found are alomost the same size (within 1/2") as the ones I ordered:
Duralast V-belt 15235 (compressor to alternator) and 15355 (crank, compressor, water pump/fan). They most likely have to be ordered (not usually an in-store stocked item), but are available. The Duralast part numbers should be able to be cross referenced at any other local parts store as well.
Bruce mentioned someone needing references to replacement LED tail light bulbs and LED compatible flasher units to go with them and asked what I used on my most recent Minis.
I got the bulbs from Amazon. Here are links to the ones I purchased.
Amber Turn Signal:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KPJ3XWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KPJ3XWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Red Tail Light:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083345PBG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083345PBG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1)
For the flasher units, I got them from my local Autozone. There are two types to consider based on what you are replacing.
The blue 1983 Van uses a round, two terminal unit:
https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/turn-signal-hazard-warning-flasher/p/novita-turn-signal-hazard-warning-flasher-el12/849385_0_7281?searchText=EL12 (https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/turn-signal-hazard-warning-flasher/p/novita-turn-signal-hazard-warning-flasher-el12/849385_0_7281?searchText=EL12)
The green 1996 uses a square, three terminal unit:
https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/turn-signal-hazard-warning-flasher/p/novita-turn-signal-hazard-warning-flasher-ep36/849391_642349_11714?searchText=EP36 (https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/turn-signal-hazard-warning-flasher/p/novita-turn-signal-hazard-warning-flasher-ep36/849391_642349_11714?searchText=EP36)
If your car has halogeon H4 headlight bulbs and you want to upgrade to LEDs, these are a recommended direct replacement:
https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/pair-of-compact-h4-p43t-472-hi-lo-beam-led-upgrade-bulbs (https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/pair-of-compact-h4-p43t-472-hi-lo-beam-led-upgrade-bulbs)
These headlight bulbs are compact and have no bulky heatsink, so fit nicely into our small, shallow headlight buckets. Even Headlight Revolution sells them (at a higher cost).
Thanks a bunch Michael! I love the LED taillight bulbs I've used for my Mini, but they seem to be discontinued by Amazon and any place else. I was really impressed by how bright your taillights were and turn signals were as I followed you up to Austin in the dark this past weekend for the COTA C&C car show. Massive improvement over the old incandescent bulbs.
For anyone who is considering updating to LED tail light and turn signal bulbs: you cannot use white LEDs as they have a different wave length of light and they are so bright they will effectively bleed out the color coming through the lens (e.g. White LEDs cause taillights to appear pink rather than red). So you MUST use red LEDs for taillights brake lights, and amber LEDs for the turn signals.
Yep they must be red. Coincidentally I just upgraded the bus lights to LED and might press the buy button for the mini as well. Guess which side has the LED's in my comparison video screen shot...
Not sure about how the mini will react but one thing I noticed when I was taking the video to compare and verify they worked was the LED side came on quicker. Maybe a half a second or so but more of an ON NOW instead of a slowly turning red.
It does not really matter what kind of car. When going from incandescent to LEDs, the LEDs will respond faster as the incandescent filament has to heat to glowing and that takes a little time versus the response of the LED.
The nice part of using LED bulbs with all the little LEDs positioned in all directions is that they really seem to fill out the lens housing with even light. (like on Dan's VW above and my Mini below). The appearance is better in person than in photos.
Did you guys do the front t/s as well as the rear?
Will those LED bulbs fit in the beehive lenses on the front of a Mk1? 8.gif
Yes, I installed LEDs in my Mini's front turn signals as well. Of course I've got the larger, post-1983 lenses. But the LED bulbs that Michael listed above are the exact same size as the regular single filament 1156 turn signals (for UK market cars that have parking lights inside the headlights themselves) or the dual filament 1157 bulbs (for North American market combo parking lights/turn signal). So they will definitely fit the classic Mini smaller beehive lenses (1959-1983).
Cool, Don and I were talking about these for his Pup's lights 77.gif
Quote from: MiniDave on July 28, 2022, 09:57:10 PM
Cool, Don and I were talking about these for his Pup's lights 77.gif
Yeah he told me he sourced a brand new pair of the very rare rear taillights for his pickup. LEDs should compliment them very well.
I did just my tail lights.
The flasher units I referenced (from Autozone) are meant for a combination of LEDs and incandescent bulbs. I tried replacing the front turn signal bulbs with LEDs as well and found those flashers were not happy - they needed the extra resistance of the fronts being incandescent bulbs.
There are other flashers available for using with all LEDs.
Quote from: MPlayle on July 29, 2022, 07:59:56 AM
I did just my tail lights.
The flasher units I referenced (from Autozone) are meant for a combination of LEDs and incandescent bulbs. I tried replacing the front turn signal bulbs with LEDs as well and found those flashers were not happy - they needed the extra resistance of the fronts being incandescent bulbs.
There are other flashers available for using with all LEDs.
I think for 1984+ Minis the incandescent side repeater bulbs in the front fenders provide that additional resistance needed for the electronic flashers, so it's no problem going LED front and rear as long as you leave the incandescents in the side repeaters.
Here's something I just got tipped to, Toyota sells high quality 7" H4 headlight sets - bulbs, wiring, relays etc for between $18-24 a set!
Toyota parts number is #81110 60P70
They are made for old Land Cruisers but that's an amazing deal. I ordered 2 sets, the dealer didn't believe the number and price were correct, but the local KC warehouse had 8 in stock, so they ordered them for me, should be here Monday. I'll update with pics when I get them.
Quote from: MiniDave on March 15, 2024, 08:01:22 AMHere's something I just got tipped to, Toyota sells high quality 7" H4 headlight sets - bulbs, wiring, relays etc for between $18-24 a set!
Toyota parts number is #81110 60P70
They are made for old Land Cruisers but that's an amazing deal. I ordered 2 sets, the dealer didn't believe the number and price were correct, but the local KC warehouse had 8 in stock, so they ordered them for me, should be here Monday. I'll update with pics when I get them.
I have those same lights in my Moke. They have a flatter face than the originals, but I am very pleased with the light output. Great price too!
Tim.
Last set I bought were Hellas and I think they cost about $150 with bulbs!
I plan to follow Bruce's lead and install LED bulbs in mine. I really don't drive much at night, but it will be nice to know I can see if I need to do some after dark driving.....
My understanding is the Hellas and Cibies are now plastic lenses , where these are well made and have glass lenses. Plus too and also, come with a wiring harness and relays.
For $18-24 a SET, plus tax!
I picked mine up at the dealer today - typical well made Toyota stuff and I think it's a hell of a deal for $24 all in - I don't know why they're more money some places than others but still a good deal!
Interesting that mine came in Lexus boxes, along with a note that said they were sending these in place of sealed beams - maybe that's why they're so cheap? Replacements for $12 each sealed beams?
Here's what they look like......
Follow up on the Toyota lights......Don picked up a set for his GT6 and installed them along with some inexpensive LED bulbs ($40 on Amazon).....the important thing on bulbs is to find some that are made just like the H4 halogens in terms of where the elements are so that the beam pattern works correctly and doesn't blind oncoming drivers.
Here are some pics from Don's GT6 showing the LED on the left and H4 on the right light. He said on high beam the LEDs are so bright they were affecting the I-Phone's ability to compensate so the pic is just kind of a bright blob on high beams, but it's still representative of how they look. He put an LED in the other one and went for a drive last night and said they were fantastic - so much better than the H4's, let alone the old sealed beams that were in the car. He needs to find some country roads to test out the high beams, but the lows were a success for sure.
There are two types of LEDs that work - the $40 ones from Amazon have a tiny fan inside rather than a giant heat sink as most of them do, and some way more expensive ones that don't have the fan. We decided to try the cheap ones first just to see how they work, we can get enough for 4 cars for the price of one set of the expensive ones. There is a middle priced spread available from England of the non-fan bulbs, $65/pr but they want $50 shipping.
First pic is high beams, 2nd pic is low beams
If you were going to put these in something that doesn't have small headlight buckets - like a Toyota truck I imagine - that has an open back side for the lights, then using the Toyota supplied wiring harness and relay setup is very plug and play - as in you plug the new harness into the back of the bulb, then into the original harness. Mount the relays and fuses on the fender and hook up to power and ground - done.
However, if you're going to use LED bulbs, then you don't need the harness and relay setup as the power requirements are so much lower.
They do stick out a bit more than the Hella, and are flatter.....